The river Cauvery, which is the lifeline of Karnataka, has a special temple dedicated to her in her birthplace Talakaveri in Coorg.
Photo Courtesy: Bindu Gopal Rao
Driving along the stunning coffee-laden landscape of Coorg morphs from green into a thick blanket of fog as you near Talakaveri, located adjacent to the Brahmagiri Hills. Interestingly, the fog is only present here, and as you drive away, the landscape is clear!
Photo Courtesy: Bindu Gopal Rao
The uphill winding road takes you to the place swamped with a complex of temples accessible by a broad flight of stairs that is invariably covered with fog. It is believed to be the birthplace of the river Cauvery, the lifeline of Karnataka’s water source. Locals believe that the river originated from the hair of Lord Shiva, flowing forth to nourish the land. The temple here is beautifully serene and the fog adds a mystic aura as you go among the temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and Ganesha. In the middle sits a water tank, believed to be the Cauvery. Most people who pay obeisance here also carry home some of the holy water. “The Cauvery River, and by extension, Talakaveri, hold immense cultural, religious, and economic significance for the Kodava people, the indigenous community of Kodagu. The Cauvery River is an integral part of Kodava’s identity and culture. It is often mentioned in local folklore, songs, and literature,” says KD Bopanna Kaliyatanda, a native of Talakaveri.
More than a River
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For the Coorgis, the river is much more than that; it is an emotion. It is woven into the rites, rituals, and stories that every Kodava (a person from Coorg) has heard through generations, inspiring and guiding the community for centuries. Punyaa Poonacha Boppanda from Coorg says, “Cauvery-amme (Mother Cauvery), the river of my ancestors, has always been the heart of my home- Coorg. For us, she is more than just a river, she is the source of life. We Kodavas pray to three main Gods: our ancestors, Ighuthappa (the God of rice), and Cauvery. From a young age, we were taught to respect and honour Her. Even today, I visit Her every year without fail.”
But Boppanda admits that a lot has changed over the years. “The Cauvery I remember, full of life and flowing strong, has started to fade. She isn’t as vibrant and abundant as She once was. While the bond I have with Cauvery remains unbroken, Her fragile state serves as a reminder that we must nurture Her, as She once nurtured us.”
The Spring of Life
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The river is also worshipped by all Coorgis, and on October 17 every year, you can visit a stunning sight when Cauvery rises in the form of a spring, marking Tula Sankramana. The festivities typically include a ceremonial bath in the waters of the Cauvery River, believed to cleanse the soul and bring blessings. Prayers and offerings are made to the river goddess, seeking her blessings and protection. Traditional Kodava dances, music, and folk art are showcased, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of the region. A grand community feast is held, where people come together to share food and celebrate the occasion. A procession is taken out, carrying sacred idols and symbols, symbolising the river’s journey. Dhanya Podanolana Shrinivas — who lives in Kopatti, 10 kilometres from Talakaveri — says, “To me, the name itself is known to be a sacred place. Talakaveri has been a source of life to each one of us, be it for agriculture coffee estates or our survival. On Tula Sankramana wherever we are, we prepare dosa by fermenting rice batter and preparing delicacies that are special only for the day.”
Changing Vistas
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While Talakaveri and the Cauvery River have played a crucial role in the lives of the Kodava people for centuries, the region has undergone significant changes over the years. The rapid pace of development and urbanisation has led to concerns about environmental degradation and pollution of the river. Deforestation, industrialisation, and climate change have posed challenges to the river’s health. Over the years, however, the landscape and the river itself have changed.
“The natural beauty is under pressure due to growing tourism and environmental shifts. Forest cover in the region has reduced, and rainfall patterns have become less predictable, impacting the water levels of the Kaveri. In recent decades, the increased human activity around Talakaveri, especially during pilgrimages has also led to pollution and a strain on the ecosystem. Despite these changes, the river continues to be a focal point for our identity, even as we balance the old ways with the modern world,” concludes Ria Belliappa, Founder of Juny’s Bakehouse and a proud Kodava.
Fact File on Talakaveri
How to reach:
Kannur International Airport is the nearest airport about 120 kilometres away. By road, you can reach Talakaveri from Bengaluru in under five hours.
Timings:
6:00 am to 6:00 pm
Where to stay:
Madikeri is located about 43 kilometres away from Talakaveri. The small town has several hotels across budgets.
Good to know:
A strict dress code is in place that requires all devotees to be fully covered while visiting this place.
Do More:
When you visit Talakaveri, stop by the Sri Bhagandeshwara Temple in Bhagamandala about 8 kilometres away. See the Triveni Sangama, said to be the meeting point of the rivers Cauvery, Kannike and mythical Sujyoti.
Note:
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.
source: http://www.travelandleisureasia.com / Travel and Leisure Asia / Home> Destinations / by Bindu Gopal Rao / December 23rd, 2024
