Tag Archives: Kavery Nambisan

Measuring Coorg in coffee spoons: Review of Kavery Nambisan’s book, ‘Cherry Red, Cherry Black: The Story of Coffee in India’

Business & Economy, Coffee, Kodagu (Coorg), Famous Personalities of Kodagu / Coorg, Records, All, Women/Girls (wef. Sept 03rd, 2022), , , , , , , , , ,

Kavery Nambisan traces the history and geography of the brew in India in her book ‘Cherry Red, Cherry Black: The Story of Coffee in India’.

At the Nellikad Coffee Estate in Pollybetta, Coorg | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

When did coffee arrive in India? How did Coorg, a rice-growing area initially, take to growing coffee in large quantities? Where does India stand as a coffee planter and exporter? Kavery Nambisan writes the history of one of the country’s most popular beverages in her new book, Cherry Red, Cherry Black: The Story of Coffee in India. In an interview, she says the history of coffee in India is closely interwoven with global history.

The story goes that an Indian merchant who went on a pilgrimage to Mecca is said to have brought some coffee seeds back with him in the early 17th century, and thus began the backyard cultivation of coffee in parts of then Mysore province, mainly Chikmagalur, Hassan and Coorg. The British saw its potential and expanded the growth of the cash crop. Having worked in the industry — she tried at her hand at berry picking when she was 15 and realised what a tough thing it is — Nambisan also outlines the challenges the industry faces.

Author Kavery Nambisan | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

You say history has everything to do with the story of coffee in India. Why?

The history of coffee is closely interwoven with global history, particularly from the 18th to the 20th century. It is believed that the stimulant effects were first discovered in Abyssinia when a goatherd noted how his goats frolicked non-stop after eating coffee berries growing in the wild. This led to its cultivation and coffee became something of an energy drink of those days. Its popularity spread to many parts of Arabia and from there to parts of Europe. An Indian merchant who went on a pilgrimage to Mecca is said to have brought some coffee beans back with him and so started the back-yard cultivation of coffee in parts of the Mysore Province, mainly, Chikmagalur, Hassan and Coorg.

By the mid-19th century the British had recognised the potential for growing coffee (and tea) on a large scale. They cut down thousands of acres of forests in these regions for this purpose. The British government which got revenue from its production and export, played a key role in regulating the sale of coffee. The two World Wars challenged the prospects of export and profits while competition from other coffee-growing countries ensured that our own plantations had to work on improving quantity and quality.

Wasn’t Coorg a rice-growing area before the prospect of expanding coffee growth brought the British to the region in large numbers?

The people of Coorg were hunter-peasants right up to the early 19th century when it was annexed by the British. Livelihood was closely tied to paddy cultivation which in turn was dependent on the monsoons. Paddy is a labour-intensive crop and needs workers prepared to work in difficult weather conditions. So the local tribespeople worked in the fields for daily wages. Coffee growing was initially very challenging, and disease often destroyed the crops. But with effective planning, research on the cause of disease, treatment and plant selection, it turned out to be very profitable.

Though the first coffee estate was set up near Mercara, why did coffee growth proliferate in southern Coorg? And what was the variety grown there?

North Coorg where coffee was initially grown receives heavy rainfall which can damage the blossoms and the young berries. Moreover, the area is mostly hilly and so coffee is grown on steep terrain. Within a few decades of cultivation, hundreds of acres of coffee plantations were thus destroyed. Many plantations closed down and some of the British planters went back to England. In Southern Coorg on the other hand, the land is gently sloping, or flat and the rains are not so severe. It is better suited for coffee cultivation. The two varieties of coffee grown are Robusta and Arabica.

A coffee picker with a sack of harvested beans | Photo Credit: GRJGM

Please share your experience of plucking coffee berries when you were 15. How tough was it?

That was foolish bravado on my part. Perhaps also, the fact that I was of an age when I romanticised manual labour. Coffee plucking itself appears easy when a skilled worker does it. Actually, It is hard work. There are nettled shrubs and creepers that get in the way, abrading palms and scratching the arms and shins. The many insects that creep, crawl and fly will often sting. Dried coffee twigs can poke the eyes for good measure when the picker crouches beneath the bushes to pluck the berries. I was not able to pick as much as I thought I could. But the workers? They talked and laughed all day and plucked enough berries to fill a few sacks each.

Was the rapport between the local Kodavas and the British a happy one? What did they learn from each other?

I guess you could say it was a good rapport. You need to go back in history in order to understand why. Coorg (or Kodagu) was ruled by the Haleri kings for 250 years before the British annexed Coorg in 1834. Coorg was better off under the British. They got schools, dispensaries, apothecaries, etc. Importantly, there was more peace and harmony which came with better administration. Within a few decades, many of the Kodavas became literate. The British found them to be hard-working, honest and trustworthy.

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Cherry Red, Cherry Black: The Story of Coffee in India

 Kavery Nambisan Bloomsbury

 ₹699

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What are some of the concerns about the modern coffee industry?

There are several concerns: Coffee plantations are the result of the felling of large areas of forest land, particularly in and around the Western Ghats. It is also a crop that uses pesticides and chemical fertilizers which denude the soil of its health and vigour. Organically grown coffee is a possibility, but economically it is not viable in large plantations. The climate catastrophes experienced in the last few years has led to destruction and loss of lives. We need to look at alternate ways of producing coffee so the end result is not deleterious to the environment. There are many individuals, groups and a few corporates who are experimenting with new methods. Coffee growing is no longer as lucrative as it once was and there is a need for innovation and the use of methods that are not harmful to the ecosystem.

A farmer in Coorg picks riped coffee beans for pulping | Photo Credit: Sampath Kumar G.P.

From Steeping to the French Press there are many ways to make coffee and you describe them in the book, which is your favourite way to make and drink coffee?

I have been a coffee drinker all my life, naturally. I cannot start the day without coffee. I like it strong, hot and full flavoured. I use a mix of Robusta and Arabica beans, roasted at a mill nearby and powdered at home. I have three methods that I use to make coffee, depending on my mood. The Moka pot coffee, filter coffee or the simple brew, in which you heat fresh water and when it comes to boil, add the coffee powder, cover and let it steep for 2 minutes, strain and serve with hot milk and jaggery.

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Books / by Sandipta Datta / December 09th, 2022

The food we eat: Indian power foods from sattu to millets

Famous Personalities of Kodagu / Coorg, Science & Technology, Women/Girls (wef. Sept 03rd, 2022), , , , , , , ,

Every part of our country has traditional ‘power foods’ that are simple, healthy and practical. Maize, bajra, jowar, dozens of varieties of millets and many more of rice.

Varagu Millet Tomato Pulao. Many of India's ‘power foods’ like bajra, jowar, maize and several varieties of millets are easier to cultivate than rice or wheat. (Photo courtesy Shradha Saraf)
Varagu Millet Tomato Pulao. Many of India’s ‘power foods’ like bajra, jowar, maize and several varieties of millets are easier to cultivate than rice or wheat. (Photo courtesy Shradha Saraf)

Having visited Bihar after many years, I was on my way to Patna airport to catch the return flight to Bangalore. Like most Biharis the driver was a talker, and a good one. After depleting our views on the political scene in the country and Bihar in particular, we were still two hours from Patna. Murari asked if I had eaten.

“No.”

“Aap Litti kayenge?”

“Hahn, kayenge.”

Litti roasted over hot coals on a chill morning in January is a treat not to be missed. It is like a wheat bun filled with a sattu, onion and jeera stuffing and traditionally eaten with a favourful tomato-rich baigan bartha cooked in mustard oil. We finished off with adrak ki chai and re-joined the commotion on the road. The hearty breakfast for two cost Rs 60.

The car sped forward and my thoughts lingered in reverse gear, dwelling on the years I spent as a surgeon in a busy mission hospital in Mokama, a hundred kilometers from Patna. In the post-operative phase after any abdominal surgery when a patient asked, “Can I eat sattu?” you knew he was on his way to recovery.

In Bihar sattu (roasted and powdered channa) is considered essential to wellbeing. It is vital for all Biharis; for those who have lived and worked there too it is a thumbs-up favorite. I used to drink sattu instead of the mid-morning tea during my years there. It is high in protein, easily digested and has a cooling effect in summer months. Patient-attenders always bring dry sattu for their use. Mixed with water and some salt, and eaten with green chillis and raw onion, it is also a convenience-food that can be carried on long journeys.

Every part of our country has traditional ‘power foods’ that are simple, healthy and practical. Maize, bajra, jowar, dozens of varieties of millets and many more of rice. However, our palates have got used to the monotonous taste of white rice and chappatis made from polished wheat. Their blandness demands highly spiced gravies thick with grease. Much worse are the maida-based snacks, breads, buns and sugary or deep-fried foods. Maida is refined wheat flour with all its nutrients removed, providing only the calories. It should not have a place in any kitchen cupboard or should be purchased only if necessary, for occasional use. In my childhood days it was popularly known as ‘Merkin Podi’ meaning ‘American Powder.’

Healthy eating is now increasingly common among upper class but upper class is only a small fraction in a country of 140 crore people. Most Indians cannot afford the luxury of eating the right foods. They are the daily-wage-earning labour in factories, construction, agriculture, domestic and hotel work; vendors, autorickshaw and bus drivers; the safai karmacharis, well- diggers, potters, plumbers, cowherds; their old and their young. Their main concerns regarding food are the cost of food, appeasement of hunger, cooking time and expense, and taste.

Until the early 1990s, an average family was satisfied with grains, pulses and locally grown vegetables, with meat, eggs, milk and fruit used sparingly. In my career I have seen how those who ate the most basic but natural food rarely suffered from heart disease, diabetes, obesity or high blood pressure. These diseases affected those who could eat processed foods with their high content of sugar, salt, fat and chemical preservatives –  namely the privileged classes.

With globalization, the floodgates of consumerism were opened and cheap, heavily processed food became affordable. It satisfied on all counts – Good to taste, economical, satiating and without the hassles or the expense of cooking. Result: A staggering number of our citizens belonging to all social strata began to suffer from the above ailments, plus others like recurring stomach disorders, reduced fertility, dental caries, anaemia and in children the attention deficit hyperactivity disorder or ADHD.

It is disturbing to acknowledge that our country is in the grip of a huge nutritional dilemma. India’s future will be shaped as much by the health of our people as by education, job availability and a more just distribution of wealth.

Every problem comes with a remedy. Here are some which will go a long way in ensuring good health for all our citizens.

As it is with most problems, one must go to the basics.

Many of the ‘power foods’ like bajra, jowar, maize and several varieties of millets (the pearl, the finger and the foxtail millet, to name a few) are easier to cultivate than rice or wheat. They need little water. It is possible to harvest two crops a year and in the intervening months, vegetables can be grown in the fields, thus promoting crop rotation. We should be replacing rice and wheat cultivation with these grains in a nationwide project. Rice and wheat can be grown in judiciously chosen water catchment areas. Thus, we can conserve millions of tonnes of water every year and bring remarkable improvement in the nutritional status countrywide. Children will have stronger bones, teeth and muscle and will no longer suffer from anaemia.

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KAVERY NAMBISAN is an Indian surgeon and author of books like The Scent of Pepper, A Luxury Called Health: A Doctor’s Journey Through The Art, and Cherry Red, Cherry Black. Views expressed are personal.

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source: http://www.moneycontrol.com / Money Control / Home> News> Health & Fitness / by Kaveri Nambisan / March 05th, 2023

Spilling The Beans On Coffee In India

Agriculture, Coffee, Kodagu (Coorg), Famous Personalities of Kodagu / Coorg, Records, All, Women/Girls (wef. Sept 03rd, 2022), , , , ,

Kavery Nambisan’s new book Cherry Red, Cherry Black details the fascinating story of coffee in India 


Kavery Nambisan was born on a coffee estate, grew up among the “twisted branches and dark green leaves of the coffee bushes”; her parents joked that she was among those children who had been “plucked off the coffee bushes.”

It is therefore fitting that the surgeon’s latest book Cherry Red, Cherry Black (Bloomsbury India) is about the history of coffee in India.

Written with anecdotes woven into chronology, this comprehensive look at the coffee industry reveals intriguing nuggets – the origins of the coffee terms ‘Robusta’ and ‘Arabica’; the story of how Southern India became coffee country (it’s more complex than the Baba Budan tale); how coffee made sugar popular… Kavery explores the world of coffee far beyond its cultivation via the journeys of rulers and invaders and the ways of governance and tribute to its current status as one of the most valuable legally-traded commodities in the world. With the pride of a true Kodava, she writes of how coffee cultivation in Coorg (now Kodagu) changed the social, ecological and economic nature of the land and its people, and of the planters clubs that still exist.

A large part of the book details the story of how Tata Coffee, with whom the author has been associated in her medical avatar, came to be, but its scope goes far beyond company history and personalities to showcase coffee’s ability to be the great leveller available to every layer of society, and details the journey of the bean from plant to cup. Readers will be fascinated to know that the coffee served at Starbucks is made with beans from Kodagu, Hassan and Chikmagalur and cured in Kushalnagar. 


Excerpts from an interview

You speak of yourself as “almost a child plucked off a coffee plant”. How was the experience of going back with research to discover what is such an integral part of your childhood? How long has this book been in the making? Have there been any surprising learnings?

Yes, coffee has been integral to my being, but I did not consciously think about it until recently when I started to write this book.  It has been a pleasure to discover the history behind coffee, and, along with it, to learn more clearly certain aspects of local history. I started to read up sometime after the middle of 2018 and wrote in 2019 but was unable to conduct some important interviews during the period when Covid came and went. After that, everything had to be ‘fast-forward.’ 

As for surprise learnings, yes, of course. There can be no better way of learning something new than writing about it. I learned much.


You are a proud Kodava and now live and work again in Kodagu. What aspects of life there do you enjoy most, both connected to coffee and otherwise?

I have worked as a surgeon in Kodagu for over 10 years, off and on. My husband and I built a house in a village here and it is surrounded by coffee estates that do not belong to us – so pleasure without responsibility! The tall shade trees that surround us are a blessing – with so much life going on in the branches and the undergrowth. As a doctor, I have a great rapport and a serious commitment to my neighbours, many of them being daily wage earners in the estates. I think we live a good life.


What does your own coffee cache look like? What would we find in there?

You would find a cache of roasted coffee beans (a blend of Arabica and Robusta). I roast the beans every few weeks or so and use about 10% of chicory to enhance its strength.


You’ve detailed a bewildering number of ways to prepare a cup of good coffee. Which is your favourite?

I use three methods, depending on my mood. Filter coffee (in the afternoons); the Moka pot or a rustic brew (adding coffee powder to just boiled water and letting it steep for two to three minutes) in the mornings. Always with a little milk and jaggery.      


India Coffee House remains your coffee house of choice in Bengaluru. Tell us what you have there when you visit these days?

It’s a great place to hang around with friends. I always have coffee and, if peckish, an omelette or a cutlet. I have been frequenting this grand old place (although now in a changed location) from my medical college days. Satisfaction guaranteed. 

source: http://www.femina.in / Femina / Home> Life> Books / by Primrose Monteiro D’Souza / November 04th, 2022