Kodagu, a tiny district in Karnataka, has produced thousands of sportspersons and soldiers for the nation.
Madikeri:
For years, cricket enthusiasts in Kodagu — a tiny district in Karnataka — were enthralled by men playing cricket tournaments. However, the game got a lot more exciting as married women’s cricket matches have now taken the spotlight.
In a remarkable event, a married women’s cricket tournament was held on Sunday, November 5, in Chetalli village of Madikeri taluk. The women participants showcased their cricketing prowess at the district-level match, and the atmosphere was electrifying.
In an intense competition, Team Maldare emerged victorious, claiming the title, while Team Master Blaster secured the second spot. These married women, donning cricket uniforms, put aside their daily chores and responsibilities to celebrate the game they love. With cricket bats in hand, they skillfully hit sixes and fours, proving that they were no less than their male counterparts on the field.
The event came alive even further by various food stalls set up by other women and mesmerising dance performances by the cheer team, which left the Chettalli High School ground brimming with excitement.
Historic moment
The Chettalli High School ground witnessed a unique and historic moment, as the 2nd married women’s open knockout cricket tournament was organised by the Chettalli’s Club. A total of 15 married women’s teams, all above 25 years of age, enthusiastically participated in this 6-over tournament.
In the much-anticipated final, Team Master Blaster won the toss and chose to bat, setting a target of 23 runs in the scheduled four overs. Team Maldare chased down this modest total in just 2.3 overs, securing their victory.
Pushpa Kuttanna, a retired principal of K M Cariappa College, lit the ceremonial lamp, emphasising the vital role women play in society. She commended the efforts of the Chettalli’s Club for organising the tournament exclusively for married women, who often balance family life and responsibilities. This marked a historic moment as the first-ever married women’s cricket tournament in the country.
‘Women can excel in any field’
Aichettira Sunitha Machaiyya, the president of the club, stated that it was established in Chetalli in 2010 with the goal of empowering women. Monthly programmes have been organised, and following the success of the tournament last year, they were inspired to host another tournament.
The winners, Team Maldare, received a cash prize of Rs 21,000 along with a trophy, while Team Master Blaster claimed the second prize of Rs 11,000 and a trophy. Kokeri women’s team secured the third prize, earning Rs 6,000 and a trophy.
Individual awards were also presented, with Bharti of Team Master Blaster named the best bowler, Sujitha of Team Maldare recognized as the best batter, and Anjana of Team Sambhrama awarded the highest run-scorer.
This historic event not only showcased the passion and talent of married women in cricket but also highlighted the importance of gender equality in sports, proving that women can excel in any field they choose.
Guinness record
Kodagu, a tiny district, has produced thousands of sportspersons and soldiers for the nation. The annual Kodava family hockey tournament, started in the year 1997, has secured place in Guinness book of World Records as the largest family hockey tournament in the world.
source: http://www.siasat.com / The Siasat Daily / Home> News> Bangalore / by News Desk / November 07th, 2023
‘Bhakta Ratnakara Keerthane’, restored work of renowned Kodava writer, released.
Dignitaries release Appaneravanda Appachha’s ‘Bhakta Ratnakara Keerthane’ in Madikeri on Saturday. DH photo
Writer Bacharaniyanda Appanna has said that a chapter on the life of Kodava writer Appaneravanda Appachha should be included in school syllabus.
At a book release programme organised by Karnataka Kodava Sahitya Academy here, Appanna said Appachha laid foundation for literary activities in Kodagu.
Lauding the initiative of the academy to document the achievements of the writer in the form of a book, Appanna said such initiatives will bust the myth that the district still lags behind in literary field. Though most of the works are being brought out in Kodava, lack of adequate publicity has become an impediment in reaching literary lovers, he observed.
Study materials
Lauding Appachha as ‘Kalidasa of Kodagu’, Appanna said it is evident with most of the poems, plays and also theatre songs penned. The available study materials will help younger generation in getting a glimpse of the writer and his achievements, he noted.
Appachha’s works date back to over a century and he has written four plays in Kodava. One among them, ‘Bhakta Ratnakara Keerthane’, was facing extinction, but for the timely initiative of the academy. The work has got a new lease of life, he said.
Registrar of Kodava Cultural Study Centre, Mangaluru University, Kodeera Lokesh said, “Though the love for the land among locals is on the decline, there are very few who feel proud and also patriotic, speaking in awe about the contribution to defence forces in the country.”
The youths should take initiative in studying culture and tradition of the land. The academy is playing a key role in conserving the culture, by judiciously using funds provided from the government, he added.
Additional Deputy Commissioner M Sathish Kumar stressed on documentation of history related to Kodagu for history lovers. The available historical documents in the record room at deputy commissioner’s office can be digitised for the benefit of next generation, he suggested.
Works released
Researcher Biddanda Rekha Chinnappa’s book on ‘Swatantrya Poorva Kodagina Rajakeeya Parisiti (Politics in Kodagu During Pre-Independence Era), researcher Kambeyanda Deena Bojanna’s ‘Kodagina Mand Mane Kymada Mandgala Srimantha Parampare (The Rich History of Traditional Kodava Houses), Macchamada Gopi Seethamma’s ‘Neethi Joppe’ and journalist Ithichanda Ramesh Utthappa’s ‘Appaneravanda Appaccha Kavi Jeevanacharitre (Biography of the Writer) and Sirigandha Srinivasmurthy’s CD on ‘Kodava Bhashikara Samagra Dakaleekarana’ were released. Akademy chairman Biddatanda S Thammaiah, Madikeri Urban Development Authority Chairman Chummi Devaiah, writer Nagesh Kalur, deputy director (retd) S I Bhavikatti were present.
source: http://www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> Amp> Story> Content> 627810 / by DHNS / August 13th, 2017
Kavery Nambisan traces the history and geography of the brew in India in her book ‘Cherry Red, Cherry Black: The Story of Coffee in India’.
At the Nellikad Coffee Estate in Pollybetta, Coorg | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
When did coffee arrive in India? How did Coorg, a rice-growing area initially, take to growing coffee in large quantities? Where does India stand as a coffee planter and exporter? Kavery Nambisan writes the history of one of the country’s most popular beverages in her new book, Cherry Red, Cherry Black: The Story of Coffee in India. In an interview, she says the history of coffee in India is closely interwoven with global history.
The story goes that an Indian merchant who went on a pilgrimage to Mecca is said to have brought some coffee seeds back with him in the early 17th century, and thus began the backyard cultivation of coffee in parts of then Mysore province, mainly Chikmagalur, Hassan and Coorg. The British saw its potential and expanded the growth of the cash crop. Having worked in the industry — she tried at her hand at berry picking when she was 15 and realised what a tough thing it is — Nambisan also outlines the challenges the industry faces.
Author Kavery Nambisan | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
You say history has everything to do with the story of coffee in India. Why?
The history of coffee is closely interwoven with global history, particularly from the 18th to the 20th century. It is believed that the stimulant effects were first discovered in Abyssinia when a goatherd noted how his goats frolicked non-stop after eating coffee berries growing in the wild. This led to its cultivation and coffee became something of an energy drink of those days. Its popularity spread to many parts of Arabia and from there to parts of Europe. An Indian merchant who went on a pilgrimage to Mecca is said to have brought some coffee beans back with him and so started the back-yard cultivation of coffee in parts of the Mysore Province, mainly, Chikmagalur, Hassan and Coorg.
By the mid-19th century the British had recognised the potential for growing coffee (and tea) on a large scale. They cut down thousands of acres of forests in these regions for this purpose. The British government which got revenue from its production and export, played a key role in regulating the sale of coffee. The two World Wars challenged the prospects of export and profits while competition from other coffee-growing countries ensured that our own plantations had to work on improving quantity and quality.
Wasn’t Coorg a rice-growing area before the prospect of expanding coffee growth brought the British to the region in large numbers?
The people of Coorg were hunter-peasants right up to the early 19th century when it was annexed by the British. Livelihood was closely tied to paddy cultivation which in turn was dependent on the monsoons. Paddy is a labour-intensive crop and needs workers prepared to work in difficult weather conditions. So the local tribespeople worked in the fields for daily wages. Coffee growing was initially very challenging, and disease often destroyed the crops. But with effective planning, research on the cause of disease, treatment and plant selection, it turned out to be very profitable.
Though the first coffee estate was set up near Mercara, why did coffee growth proliferate in southern Coorg? And what was the variety grown there?
North Coorg where coffee was initially grown receives heavy rainfall which can damage the blossoms and the young berries. Moreover, the area is mostly hilly and so coffee is grown on steep terrain. Within a few decades of cultivation, hundreds of acres of coffee plantations were thus destroyed. Many plantations closed down and some of the British planters went back to England. In Southern Coorg on the other hand, the land is gently sloping, or flat and the rains are not so severe. It is better suited for coffee cultivation. The two varieties of coffee grown are Robusta and Arabica.
A coffee picker with a sack of harvested beans | Photo Credit: GRJGM
Please share your experience of plucking coffee berries when you were 15. How tough was it?
That was foolish bravado on my part. Perhaps also, the fact that I was of an age when I romanticised manual labour. Coffee plucking itself appears easy when a skilled worker does it. Actually, It is hard work. There are nettled shrubs and creepers that get in the way, abrading palms and scratching the arms and shins. The many insects that creep, crawl and fly will often sting. Dried coffee twigs can poke the eyes for good measure when the picker crouches beneath the bushes to pluck the berries. I was not able to pick as much as I thought I could. But the workers? They talked and laughed all day and plucked enough berries to fill a few sacks each.
Was the rapport between the local Kodavas and the British a happy one? What did they learn from each other?
I guess you could say it was a good rapport. You need to go back in history in order to understand why. Coorg (or Kodagu) was ruled by the Haleri kings for 250 years before the British annexed Coorg in 1834. Coorg was better off under the British. They got schools, dispensaries, apothecaries, etc. Importantly, there was more peace and harmony which came with better administration. Within a few decades, many of the Kodavas became literate. The British found them to be hard-working, honest and trustworthy.
___________________________
Cherry Red, Cherry Black: The Story of Coffee in India
Kavery Nambisan Bloomsbury
₹699
_________________________
What are some of the concerns about the modern coffee industry?
There are several concerns: Coffee plantations are the result of the felling of large areas of forest land, particularly in and around the Western Ghats. It is also a crop that uses pesticides and chemical fertilizers which denude the soil of its health and vigour. Organically grown coffee is a possibility, but economically it is not viable in large plantations. The climate catastrophes experienced in the last few years has led to destruction and loss of lives. We need to look at alternate ways of producing coffee so the end result is not deleterious to the environment. There are many individuals, groups and a few corporates who are experimenting with new methods. Coffee growing is no longer as lucrative as it once was and there is a need for innovation and the use of methods that are not harmful to the ecosystem.
A farmer in Coorg picks riped coffee beans for pulping | Photo Credit: Sampath Kumar G.P.
From Steeping to the French Press there are many ways to make coffee and you describe them in the book, which is your favourite way to make and drink coffee?
I have been a coffee drinker all my life, naturally. I cannot start the day without coffee. I like it strong, hot and full flavoured. I use a mix of Robusta and Arabica beans, roasted at a mill nearby and powdered at home. I have three methods that I use to make coffee, depending on my mood. The Moka pot coffee, filter coffee or the simple brew, in which you heat fresh water and when it comes to boil, add the coffee powder, cover and let it steep for 2 minutes, strain and serve with hot milk and jaggery.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Books / by Sandipta Datta / December 09th, 2022
The recent World Coffee Conference in Bengaluru highlighted how speciality growers and artisanal roasters are discovering the rich flavours and nuances of Indian beans.
Tribal farmers in the Araku Valley | Photo Credit: Surbhi Kaushik
There was a time when Indian coffee was dismissed as a shy bean, a filler coffee, remembers Sunalini Menon, the president of Coffeelab Limited, a Bengaluru-based coffee sensory evaluation laboratory and research organisation. Not anymore.
India’s first woman coffee taster, Sunalini has been assessing coffee for almost fifty years. “Now they are looking at India and seeing a sustainable, traceable coffee which can no longer be pushed under the table,” she says.
The success of the 5th edition of the World Coffee Conference (WCC), which was held at Bangalore Palace in September, is a testament to this mounting interest in Indian coffee. “We had purchasers from all over the world, European machine manufacturers, traders of imported coffee machines from China and Europe, coffee consultants—in other words, WCC was a coffee community haven,” recalls Dinshay Luthiya, the founder of Bai Mu Dan, Pune, who also helped design the coffee program at Veronica’s in Mumbai.
Tribal Farmers in the Araku Valley | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Not only did WCC prove to be a forum to network with various stakeholders in the coffee industry, but it also offered an opportunity to taste coffees that he had never heard of before, adds Dinshay, who believes that the event opened new horizons for all Indian coffee growers, roasters, and exporters.
According to Dr Mandappa I.M., Divisional Head, Coffee Quality at Coffee Board, India, which organised the WCC, the event had visitors from over 80 countries and saw 10-12,000 daily walk-ins on average. “This conference was a huge eye-opener. People are really noticing Indian coffee, which is very encouraging for the entire sector,” he says. “It is high time that India is on the coffee map.”
So, what lies ahead in the world of Indian coffee? This is what the coffee experts and aficionados across the country say.
The rise and rise of specialty coffee
For a long time, Indian coffee was largely seen as a soft commodity, a homogenised, interchangeable product. “Coffee was just purchased to be blended into instant coffee, the worst quality of coffee”, points out Manoj Kumar, the co-founder of Araku Coffee and CEO of the Naandi Foundation, which has been instrumental in enabling the tribal farmers of Andhra Pradesh’s Araku valley to grow specialty coffee.
This, in turn, led to farmers focusing more on quantity over quality, says Akshay Vaidyanathan of Kapikottai, a Chennai-based artisanal coffee roasting business. “Because of this, there is the whole assumption that Indian coffee is not nice-tasting,” he says. “That is thankfully changing.”
Coffee seeds | Photo Credit: Surbhi Kaushik
Today, according to Mandappa, there are a whole lot of Indian growers producing specialtycoffee, both for the domestic and export markets. While coffee prices are notoriously volatile and dependent on a number of variable factors, in general, specialtycoffee—a term used to describe very high-quality coffee that scores above 80 points on a 100-point scale—fetches a higher premium. “Since the growers get better returns, they are willing to put in the extra effort to process and take care of their coffees better,” he says.
Another thing that appears to be altering the coffee narrative is the changes in the demographic of producers. “It is the young people in India who are driving this trend very strongly at the moment,” believes Mandappa. Many of the people in the specialty coffee market today are often 4th and 5th generation planters returning back to their farms, having travelled and studied abroad, and are fully aware of the potential of specialty coffee. “There is a lot of innovation when it comes to post-harvest processing of coffee today.”
Komal Sable, who runs The South India Coffee Company with her husband, Akshay Dashrath, must agree. When they first started the brand five-odd years ago, hoping to put Indian specialty coffee on the global map, only 10% of their family farm in Coorg was reserved for it, with the rest of the coffee going to the commodity market. Over the years, as the demand for specialty coffee increased, the ratio kept changing; today, nearly 80% of their farm produces specialty coffee, says Sable, who believes that the market is in the growth stage.
Farmers in Araku Valley | Photo Credit: Surbhi Kaushik
Home brewing stays hot
Anush Bhargava’s interest in coffee was first piqued when videos of Dalgona coffee went viral on social media in early 2020. Till then, he had barely drunk anything but the odd Frappuccino at Starbucks. Trying to make this coffee at home shifted something in him, his curiosity deepening when he came across an article about different brewing products and coffee in August of that year. Within a year, he had all the brewing equipment one could think of, including a V60, Aeropress, Moka pot, syphon and a manual espresso machine. “That is how it began for me,” says the 33-year-old.
COVID appears to have catalysed the home brewing movement in the country, which inevitably turned the spotlight on Indian coffees. “During the pandemic, home brewers really doubled and tripled in number,” agrees Mandappa. “They are more than willing to experience newer tasting coffees.”
And despite the mushrooming of more and more coffee cafes with innovative coffee drinks being served in the recent past and also in the present, the trend isn’t going away anytime soon. “Home brewing is still doing well,” says Sunalini, who believes that while COVID certainly made home brewing an important aspect of life, especially among millennials, other factors such as quality improvement, sustainability and relationship marketing are continuing to drive this interest.
Raised bed coffee drying | Photo Credit: Courtesy Komal Sable
Marc Tormo, a coffee roaster and creative consultant from Auroville, who began roasting and selling coffee under the Marc’s Coffees label in 2008, says that effort taken by brands to educate consumers on the nuances of the product is also driving the trend. “The education part is very important,” believes Marc, pointing out that most brands always try to teach you more about the coffee they sell, whether through workshops or by the information they carry on their packaging. Building awareness, he believes, is especially important since the final step—brewing—lies with the consumer. “If you truly want to enjoy it, you require understanding and knowledge.”
Beyond Arabica
Coffee is one of the most vulnerable crops out there, with estimates that nearly 50% of coffee species could go extinct in the next 25 years. Not surprisingly, therefore, a lot of current coffee research is focused on developing more climate-resilient species and varieties. “At the WCC, we had a dedicated workshop where we cupped 12 different climate-resilient species,” says Mandappa, who believes that India is “up there” when it comes to research on this.
While India has always been known for producing the best Robusta, a hardier and more resilient species of coffee than Arabica, in the world, there is research being done on other species as well, say many industry players.
Coffee being harvested | Photo Credit: Courtesy Komal Sable
Komal, for instance, says that they grow a species called Excelsa on the farm, in addition to Robusta and Arabica. This coffee species, she says, is a tree, not a plant and was usually seen planted around the border of estates. We noticed that the Excelsa tree gives an average yield each year with minimal intervention,” says Komal, who is also researching other native species of coffee such as Coffea Bengalensis, Coffea Travencorensis, and Coffea Wightiana.
What is also helping the coffee narrative go beyond Arabica is advancements in processing techniques. “Robusta has always had many positive points, but processing it has traditionally been harder,” agrees Sunalini, who is an unequivocal champion of this less-popular species. With more advanced processes—says new fermentation techniques—this is changing, something Komal agrees with, too. “One of our Robustas is doing very well in the Netherlands market and is produced using a very interesting process—an 84-hour ferment with a yeast culture,” she says, adding that there is a growing market for what is referred to as “fine robusta”. “Processing makes a big difference to the cup quality, and there is a lot of innovation being done in this space.”
There are two things that Anush thinks of a lot when picking up his coffee: sustainability and traceability. ‘I am part of a Discord group where a lot of coffee aficionados meet and talk about these things,” he says, confirming something that many people in the business claim: Indian coffee is now stepping into its 4th wave.
While the definition of what the fourth wave entails varies depending on who you ask, it is essentially about going beyond merely creating a high-quality product, also focusing on the consumer’s desire to better understand coffee’s supply chain and its social and environmental impact.
“In a world where young people are thinking that food comes from an app, it is important for them to be engaged with these things,” believes Manoj, who firmly believes that coffee’s quality and ability to be sustainable depends on how diverse a farm is. According to him, monoculture cropping will not withstand climate crisis, something coffee is expected to be especially susceptible to. “Indian coffee is blessed to have the option of being shade-grown,” he says. Therefore, creating a biodiverse ecosystem where coffee is grown under various fruit trees, silver oak or Ficus, and alongside spices like pepper does wonders for coffee quality. “If you look at the coffee estates within India, wherever there is biodiversity, the quality is at another level,” he says.
Coffee being raked | Photo Credit: Courtesy Komal Sable
In his opinion, the coffee revolution needs to be led by single-origin traceable coffee, which is directly sourced from farms by coffee entrepreneurs willing to offer better prices based on quality. “This way, the farmers will transform themselves,” he says. Take, for instance, the case of Buridi Sundaramma, who hails from the Gondivalasa village in the Araku Valley Mandal. She says that since she started cultivating the organic, terroir-mapped coffee that Araku Coffee is best known for, her income has increased substantially. Thanks to this, all her three children are extremely well-educated, and she has also managed to invest in cattle and gold. She says, “This all because of coffee.”
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Food / by Preeti Zacharaiah / November 03rd, 2023
The first Annual General Body Meeting (AGM) and get-together of Pombolak Kodava Koota, Mysuru was held at Kodava Samaja premises in Vijayanagar here recently.
Koota President Mundottira Jaya Chengappa presided.
Theetharamada Dr. Devaki rendered the invocation. Vice-President Thathira Bheemaiah condoled the death of Koota members in the past one year.
Koota’s annual report was read out by Joint Secretary Guddanda Rashmi Uday while the accounts was presented by Treasurer Kullachanda Vinutha Kesari.
The names of new members was read out by Annarkanda Prathima Thimmaiah, who also compered the programme.
Committee Member Boppanda Appaji proposed the vote of thanks.
Various sports and games were conducted for the members present by Sports Committee Member Adikera Sajjan Cariappa.
Cash prizes were presented to meritorious students while the Ph.D awardee Dr. Theetharamada Dr. Devaki was felicitated on the occasion.
Hon. Secretary Chottanda Chengappa, Mallengada Sharanu Somaiah, Theethira Beena, Ammanda Somaiah, Mullanda Vinu Cariappa and others were present.
source: http://www.starofmysore.com / Star of Mysore / Home> News / November 02nd, 2023
Member of legislative assembly (MLA) and chief minister Siddarmaiah’s legal advisor, AS Ponnanna on Tuesday stated that possessing wildlife products with ancestral connections should not an offence.
MLA AS Ponnanna stresses importance of recognising the historical importance of heritage items. (Facebook/ AS Ponnanna)
Member of legislative assembly (MLA) and chief minister Siddarmaiah’s legal advisor, AS Ponnanna on Tuesday said that possessing wildlife products with ancestral connections should not be an offence.
Ponnanna’s statement came in reference to the stay order issued by the state high court in response to a notice served to Rajya Sabha member and actor Jaggesh by forest officials.’
Speaking to reporters in Madikeri on Tuesday, Ponnanna said that the forest ministry should instruct forest officers not to take any action against those who possess wildlife products until the high court delivers its verdict.
Ponnanna stressed the importance of recognising the cultural and historical significance of heritage items and expressed his belief that it is not appropriate to initiate legal proceedings against those who possess such items. “There is a need for forest officials to have a comprehensive understanding of the wildlife protection laws and urged the government to provide clear guidance to these officers,” he said.
The issue at hand pertains to the use of wildlife products traditionally employed by the people of Kodagu for generations. Ponnanna mentioned that he intends to meet with the chief minister and engage in discussions aimed at providing relief through the state government.
The ongoing legal actions taken by the forest department against individuals who possess wildlife products have instilled fear among hundreds of residents in Kodagu district. Given that the district is a hilly region known for its abundant wildlife and was once encouraged for hunting during the British colonial period, wildlife protection laws were only established in 1972. Prior to that, hundreds of landowners in Kodagu proudly displayed wildlife antlers and skins in their homes as a status symbol, he said.
In Kodagu, people showcased wildlife antlers and skins in their homes as a status symbol. “As I have possessed deer antlers for more than a century, I did not declare them with the forest department,” a coffee grower from Ponnampet in Kodagu told HT on condition of anonymity. He suggested that the state government should provide one more opportunity for individuals to declare their possession of wildlife products.
“The state government should act in accordance with the law. No concessions should be granted to anyone, nor should the possession of wildlife products be allowed,” wildlife expert KM Chinnappa told HT. He warned that if the government permits such practices, hunting could make a resurgence. Chinnappa emphasized the need to change our habits and strictly follow the law, which is enforced for the benefit of the people.
“We will not file suo moto cases or conduct checks in houses in Kodagu,” Madikeri DCF H Bhaskar told HT. He explained that the state government had previously given people a chance to declare their possession of wildlife products until 2003. Whether the state offers another chance for declaration or not, he added, it would be considered an offence.
source: http://www.hindustantimes.com / Hindustan Times / Home> News> Cities> Bengaluru News / by Coovrcolly Indresh, Mysuru / November 01st, 2023
It’s the crack of dawn, and the tranquil lanes of Bangalore are gearing up for the incoming hustle and bustle. Along with the rays of sun that seep through the canopy of trees, the whiff of freshly brewed filter coffee, commonly referred to as filter kaapi, infiltrating the air marks the beginning of the day.
While studying in Bangalore, filter kaapi became my sole source of caffeine owing to its potency and affordability. A trip to the coveted neighbourhood Darshini, an eatery serving all-day breakfast and other South Indian vegetarian delicacies, easily fell into my morning regime. I was one of the thousand patrons visiting this institution regularly for golden dosas, crispy vadas, fluffy idlis and, of course, the pièce de résistance, a strong cup of coffee served in a dabara set (brass tea cup and tumbler).
Filter kaapi is made through quite a different process from Western filter coffee. Image: Kaapi Melbourne
How did the tea-loving nation inculcate coffee into their daily life?
The answer dates to the 16th century when Baba Budan, an Indian Sufi saint, chanced upon these aromatic beans in Yemen during his pilgrimage to Mecca. The Arabs safeguarded these beans to maintain a monopoly of the growth and export and sold them only in their roasted form, disabling buyers from growing coffee on their home grounds. The Sufi saint is claimed to have smuggled seven coffee seeds to India, with his beard as the vessel. He then planted them in the Chandragiri hills of the Western Ghats, where coffee plantations flourished.
For nearly two centuries, the consumption of bean juice was limited to the surrounding area of the hills. It wasn’t until the 1830s, when the British arrived on the fertile soil of Coorg in South India that coffee became cultivated on a larger scale. Apart from the still-standing architecture, the British also left behind the knowledge of coffee farming, which evolved as it seeped through generations. In 1854, an Englishman named John Fowler developed the first coffee plantation in Coorg. Since then, almost every Kodava (locals of Coorg) household started growing their own Arabicas and Robustas, perfecting them over the years.
According to legend, coffee beans in India were first planted in the Chandragiri hills of the Western Ghats. Image: Fidha Fathima
Amongst the belts of Western Ghats, parts of Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Eastern Ghats of Andhra Pradesh and Odisha, the fertile soil and shade-filled surrounding is perfect for growing coffee beans. As a result, coffee consumption in South India grew exponentially, and India became one of the leading producers of coffee. For many decades and even today, the familiar sounds in South Indian kitchens are the morning whistles of the pressure cooker accompanied by a faint trickling of the coffee in the brewer.
How is it different from the Western filter coffee?
While the idea behind filtering coffee is the same as the Western filter coffee, the difference in the process is worlds apart. A special cylindrical steel apparatus with two components is used to make the coffee; the first component has a perforated bottom and a plunging disc to press the coffee down, allowing it to drip-feed, and the second collects the coffee decoction. The mighty decoction is topped with boiling-hot milk and frothed manually, often theatrically with long high pours between two cups. A copious amount of sugar is added, creating a potent cup of delectable coffee that will jolt a lightning-quick wave of caffeine in your nervous system and is probably capable of waking up a sedimentary rock.
The difference lies not just in its process, but in the beans used, which are usually medium to dark roast. Most coffee roasters package a blend of coffee and chicory; this practice started in France to stretch limited supplies and was adopted globally. Over time, this resulted in the birth of Scottish ‘Camp Coffee,’ a syrup made of coffee and chicory essence infused with sugar. The infusion was a timesaver for the Scottish regiment in the British Army; who has the time to brew coffee when you have a nation to demolish? The consumption of Camp Coffee extended to the British and Indian soldiers, who slowly acquired a taste for coffee made from syrup. Today, as we have elevated our coffee game, the blend continues to stay and is quite popular owing to the added flavour and benefits of chicory.
Image: Kaapi Melbourne
What are the different variations of kaapi, and how can I have it in New Zealand?
Akin to our food, coffee took many forms and shapes as it crossed state and regional borders. Coffee connoisseurs also sought different ratios of coffee chicory blend, 80:20 being the most popular. Coorg is famous for Bella Kaapi, black coffee made with jaggery to combat the bitterness, and Sukku Kaapi in Kerala and Tamil Nadu is black coffee with palm sugar, dried ginger and ground coriander, a common remedy for cold and cough. Tamil Nadu is also home to Kumbakonam degree coffee, made with fresh milk straight out of the cow. Under the South Indian filter coffee umbrella, the variance lies in the coffee chicory ratio, type of beans used, additional ingredients and the brewing process.
As a filter coffee fanatic, the hunt to find one in New Zealand was eminent, and many Sundays were spent scouring the best South Indian filter coffee. Like stale eggs in a pot of water, my search brought a handful of eateries to the surface. However, it did have a silver lining. Along with filter coffee, the search brought to light authentic dosa, idli, vada, and kesari bath (a sweet dish made of semolina) accompanied by bowls of coconut chutney and sambar. Here’s where you can sink your teeth into them:
Saffron and Maya’s South Indian Bistro: Both well-known institutions in the South Indian circle, and the queues outside the venue on Saturdays and Sundays are a testament to that. On weekends, they serve a South Indian-style breakfast buffet, both delicious and a bargain. A small cup of filter coffee is offered at the end to finish the meal.
RRK’s Madras Café: A new kid on the colourful block of Sandringham that is quickly turning out to be one of the top-notch South Indian restaurants in Auckland. The unassuming eatery specialises in food from Tamil Nadu; their Chicken Kothu Parotta, chicken and flaky paratha chopped up into pieces with a coveted blend of spices, is worth braving the heat, and their filter coffee is highly recommended.
Sahana South Indian Restaurant: Another hit amongst the circle, the eatery serves homely South Indian fare all day long. The weekend vegetarian buffet features a diverse range of breakfast and lunch items with new weekly off-menu specials. Pro tip: Call ahead and make a reservation for flawless service.
For those who wish to master this at home, Malgudi Days in Australia holds an inventory of coffee beans sourced all the way from South India, the filter coffee-making apparatus and even the dabara sets for you to have that wholesome experience of savouring a cup of filter coffee. Click here to check out their brewing guide.
– Asia Media Centre
source: http://www.asiamediacentre.org.nz / Asia Media Centre, Asia New Zealand Foundation / Home> Features / by Anusha Kulal / November 01st, 2023
Funds of nearly Rs 3 crore are being spent for the event that has garnered support from all the Kodava Samajas including the Samajas established abroad.
Members of the Kodava community (Express)
Madikeri :
A Global Kodava Summit aims to unite the Kodava community under a single roof and highlight the culture, traditions, and crises faced by the community. Several members of the community in the district fear that the culture, traditions, and practices of the Kodavas are at stake and will soon vanish.
The summit will host various cultural programmes, exhibitions, and seminars to preserve the unique practices of the Kodavas. It will be hosted by the Connecting Kodavas Trust and will be held on December 29 and 30 in Madikeri.
The summit is the fruit of efforts taken by the trust for several years. “Since 2017, the Connecting Kodavas forum has been involved in collecting details of every Kodava clan from the nook and corner of the district,” said Niran Nanjappa, one of the core members of the Connecting Kodavas Trust.
Meanwhile, volunteers have visited all the villages in the district to document details of the roots of the various Kodava clans.
“As per our research, over 1,000 Kodava clans are in existence. Many other clans have vanished. A few clans have just two members and the biggest clan has over 650 members. All these details are documented and will be revealed during the summit that is likely to witness participation from 20,000 to 25,000 people,” Niran Nanjappa added.
“During our research, we have found several anecdotes relating to the roots, practices and evolution of the Kodava clans. We have insights into the issues that led to the vanishing of several clans too. All these anecdotes will be shared to ensure that the community flourishes and our culture is preserved,” he opined.
“After the summit, we also plan to release websites for each clan so that the members of the clan can track their lineage,”Niran Nanjappa added.
Funds of nearly Rs 3 crore are being spent for the event that has garnered support from all the Kodava Samajas including the Samajas established abroad.
Alongside seminars, the Global Kodava Summit will also have demonstrations of the various practices, architecture, and ancestral history of the community as well as interactive workshops.
The forum also aims to establish a model village in the near future across five to six acres of land to highlight the uniqueness of the community.
source: http://www.newindianexpress.com / The New Indian Express / Home> States> Karnataka / by Express News Service / October 31st, 2023
While coffee’s third wave is about the quality of the beans, sustainability and single origin bean-to-cup brews, the next wave will focus on cold brews, innovation, and a new approach to coffee marketing.
Credit: DH IllustrationDeepak Harichandan
I was five when I had my first taste of coffee. It was just a few drops, milky and sweet. I insisted on tasting it, as my coffee-loving mother always felt ‘refreshed’ after drinking ‘kaapi’. As a teenager, study time started with a cup of ‘good’ instant coffee. My Tamil Brahmin best friend’s paati (grandmother) introduced me to filter coffee a few years later. Raised in Delhi in the ’90s, coffee wasn’t necessarily a hot topic. There were no cafes and coffee chains then. Latte, cappuccino, and Americano were not part of my vocabulary yet.
I enjoyed my filter coffee everyday, but I rarely ventured beyond that. Over the years, I read about the coffee varieties and trends. I considered myself a coffee lover, but it wasn’t until a month ago that I realised my understanding of coffee was limited. First, I had the opportunity of visiting a coffee plantation in Kodagu. Intrigued by what I learned there, I felt compelled to attend the World Coffee Conference at Bengaluru Palace a few days later. It was in September, around International Coffee Day. It opened to me a world of coffee, with its variety of beans, processing and brewing methods, and roasts. Since then, I have signed up for coffee cupping sessions, interacted with coffee experts and sampled unusual brews.
At the India International Coffee Festival in Bengaluru 10 years ago, I got to paint with a coffee concoction. I also participated in latte art tutorials, and got to look at the latest farming equipment being used. Much has changed since.
What’s brewing?
Living in Karnataka, a state that accounts for more than 70 per cent of the country’s total coffee production, the beverage is hard to escape. Bengaluru is home to numerous cafes, besides international chains such as Costa Coffee, Starbucks and most recently, Tim Hortons.
Awareness about coffee has grown in recent years. People are clued in on the different roasts (light, medium or dark), where their beans are sourced from (estates and regions), and their flavour profiles (broadly earthy, fruity, nutty or floral).
Credit: DH IllustrationDeepak Harichandan
Arabica and robusta are the most common varieties grown in India. Arabica has a smoother and sweeter flavour, with hints of fruit, chocolate, nuts, and caramel. It is used mostly for speciality coffee. Robusta coffee is known to have a strong and bitter taste. It is earthy, with notes of burnt wood. It is the most commonly used variety in South India. Low grade robusta beans are used to make instant coffee powder. Chicory, often added to coffee powder, lends it the ‘roasted’ flavour. An excess of it can make the coffee feel stronger or bitter.
Broadly, there are two types of coffee processing — natural and washed. In the natural process, the cherry is allowed to dry out completely and fermentation is uncontrolled, as it happens inside the cherry itself. In washed processing, the pulp and skin are removed but the mucilage on the bean is broken down by the yeast and bacteria on the cherry and its skin.
A recent addition to my kitchen gear is a French press. After a wait of about five minutes, you can enjoy an aromatic cup of coffee with its oils retained. At the conference, I was introduced to other options: the pour over, aeropress, siphon, Chemex and percolator.
Home cafe
One of the stalls I visited was promoting the e-commerce platform Something’s Brewing, a part of Kaapi Machines, a company that sells coffee equipment and accessories. The start-up was born during the pandemic.
Vivek Vishwanathan, a representative of the company, took me through how I could brew a good cuppa with their Budan espresso machine, which has an inbuilt grinder. The brew, made from arabica coffee, had a heavy body and was intense on the palate. It tasted like it was processed with its oils, giving it the thick consistency that one experiences at good cafes. The machine is a time saver, he told me. He stressed the importance of the right grind size for each brewing method, the quality of coffee beans, and the importance of tamping the coffee evenly in the portafilter while brewing.
Of the many unique coffees I have tried, the bubblegum coffee and the toffee coffee from Hatti Kaapi have stayed in my mind. They brought back memories of Boomer, the strawberry-flavoured bubblegum of my childhood, and old-fashioned caramel candies.
The Coffee Board of India classifies speciality coffee into five broad categories — decaffeinated coffee (coffee with caffeine removed artificially), organic coffee (grown without using chemicals and pesticides), high grown coffee (grown at higher elevations — 4,000 ft and above), estate coffee or single origin coffees (highlighted by the special features of the estate it is grown in), and variety coffee (Indian varieties like Kents, Agaro, Cioccie, and CxR, which stand out for their quality).
Kents is a varietal of the arabica, and is known for better yield and its resistance to leaf rust, while CxR is a robusta coffee, developed for better yield and a better flavour profile. Agaro coffee is an arabica variety, mostly grown in Ethiopia. It is found in few farms in India. Cioccie is also an old Ethiopian variety.
In terms of speciality coffee, India has a long way to go, says Abhinav Mathur, managing director of Kaapi Machines. “The popularity of speciality roasters is just kicking off in our country, with companies like Blue Tokai Coffee Roasters and Third Wave Coffee Roasters getting funding,” he shared.
In the near future, beverage types will go through more innovations, he said. Abhinav says a majority of their consumers are well-travelled professionals who have sampled coffees across the world, and “the curious Gen-Z crowd who are getting started early”. “They ask many questions, some of which even we have to research. They are value and sustainability conscious, and are aware of the various flavour profiles and coffee types available now,” he added.
While coffee’s third wave is about the quality of the beans, sustainability and single origin bean-to-cup brews, the next wave will focus on cold brews, innovation, and a new approach to coffee marketing. Coffee experts say that innovation will revolve around home brewing and speciality equipment.
Farm to cup
Some are also paying attention to how their coffee is grown. I spoke to A M Ganapathy, the owner of Vivekananda Coffee Estate, a family-owned plantation in Chettalli, Kodagu. Here, regenerative agricultural practices put together by the Speciality Coffee Association, a trade body, have been diligently implemented.
The practices help improve the quality of the soil. “Increasingly, there is a demand for chemical-free coffee. Regenerative agriculture is a holistic farming system that focuses on soil health, food quality, biodiversity improvement, water and air quality. It improves soil health through practices that increase soil organic matter. It also aims at enhancing water holding capacity and carbon sequestration. The government is encouraging farmers to take up this practice,” Ganapathy explained.
The process also supports biodiversity and returns carbon and nutrients to the soil. “Soil organic carbon and soil organic matter are vital for plant growth. It also facilitates water infiltration, retention and nutrient cycling, reduces erosion, and provides habitat and food for diverse species,” he added.
Regenerative agriculture includes cover crops (that are planted to cover the soil rather than for the purpose of being harvested), integration of livestock and reduced or zero tillage, he shared. “Our annual yield is moderate and varies between three-fourth to one tonne per acre,” he said.
Taste notes
My newfound interest in brewing methods and roasts led me to sign up for a few tasting experiences. At the Starbucks Coffee outlet on Lavelle Road, Bengaluru, cupping sessions are held regularly. At one of their sessions, I tried their Diwali Blend and the Single Origin Kenya Coffee, sourced from Kenya.
At the slow coffee bar, four brewing methods awaited me — a siphon, Chemex, French press, and pour over. Though I had seen them at the Conference, I was taken by the chemistry lab-like setup. It was fascinating to watch the Diwali Blend being made in the siphon, and the Kenyan coffee in a Chemex.
The siphon is a vacuum-filtration method, which uses halogen lights to heat water. The movement of evaporated water from the lower chamber to the upper chamber and back was theatrical to watch. The Chemex is considered a hybrid brewing method. Its one-piece hourglass shape with a collar looked decorative, more than like coffee equipment.
The Diwali Blend was a blonde roast. It was sweet and aromatic (it had notes of dusted cocoa, apricot, and dried ginger). I took a whiff of the freshly ground Kenyan coffee. It was floral and fruity. When I took a sip it made my mouth water. This meant that it was highly acidic, I was told.
The brewmaster, Madhav, explained: “The brewing methods are based on how one likes one’s coffee, keeping in mind factors like intensity and taste.” Each brewing method has its own characteristics. A siphon is said to produce a delicate and aromatic cup, while the Chemex with its triple-layer paper filter makes a smooth and clean cup. The pour over method makes a cup of rich, clean and balanced coffee, and the French press is used to make a full-bodied, thick cup of coffee, where the oils are retained.
I then tasted the Sumatran coffee (a single origin coffee from Indonesia) made in a pour over. It had earthy and herbal notes. One whiff of it reminded me of the first rains of the monsoon season.
I also tasted two cold brews — one made with coarsely ground Kenyan coffee (smooth and sweet) and a nitrogen cold brew (infused with nitrogen) of the same bean, which was creamy, refreshing and smooth.
The interesting part about such cupping sessions is the number of common and not-so-common facts one comes across.
Slurping is important in the coffee world. At the handful of coffee cupping sessions I have attended, I was urged to slurp the drink. It is the best way to taste all the different flavour notes.
At another coffee cupping session at Maverick & Farmer Coffee, Halasuru, Bengaluru, I tasted a coffee I have wanted to for years — the civet coffee (it was not the original Indonesian Kopi Luwak but an Indian version of the same). Often referred to as the ‘poop coffee’, it is made from partially digested coffee cherries, eaten and defecated by a civet cat. It was from Pankajam Estate in Idukki, Kerala. This Indian version had a hint of cardamom. I was informed by Ashish D’abreo, coffee roaster and co-founder of Maverick, that the coffee plants were grown on a cardamon estate, which could possibly explain the presence of the spice note.
Acidity level, aged, body, dry, earthy, fine, flat, and grassy, were some of the terms I heard being used at these sessions. They made me realise there was so much more I needed to learn.
A Plantation Tour
A visit to Yemmigoondi estate in Pollibetta, Kodagu, owned by Tata Coffee, threw light on how these plants grow and are harvested. The plantation was spread across 1,500 acres (600 odd hectares). As I took in the view of the arabica plants on the left and the robusta plants on the right, I wondered when they would harvest. A company representative told us that robusta are stouter and grow almost twice the size of an arabica plant. “For robusta, the space maintained between two plants is around 10x10ft. After applying fertiliser and culturing, robusta starts yielding by the fifth year. Arabica gives yield by the fourth year,” he added.
I learnt that the two varieties require unique environments to thrive — robusta plants are smaller in number and need more heat. Arabica starts maturing by November, and robusta matures around December. Robusta makes up 60% of the estate’s entire crop, I was told.
Puneet Das, from Tata Consumer Products, explained that consumption of instant coffee remains high in the country. “For the south of the country, where coffee is a regular habit, hyperlocalisation as a strategy works as it has native appeal. Our new coffee decoctions like Chukku Kaapi (a popular Kerala drink made from dry ginger, black pepper and coffee powder), and the Coorg Kaapi are some examples,” he said.
What is a Wave in the Coffee World ?
It refers to a period of time in the evolution of coffee. The field has gone through several big changes and innovations. The first wave (started in the 1800s) represented a shift from coffee being a novelty drink to a commodity. In the second wave (started in the 1970s), it became a culture (characterised by the arrival of coffee chains). The third wave (started in the 2000s) revolves around consumer awareness, focus on flavour profiles and the coffee bean.
The fourth wave is said to be dominated by innovation. Coffee experts say that we are now entering the fourth wave. In coffee innovation, fermentation plays an important role in unlocking or creating new flavours. In the last decade, farmers have exprerimented with many controlled fermentation processes, while working with temperature, or introduction of yeast and bacteria from other fruits. Ashish, of Maverick, says, “In 2018, we created a fruit-fermented coffee. We introduced lightly-pulped oranges into the fermentation barrel. In another case, we extracted lactic acid from milk and added it into the fermentation, which rendered a honey flavour to the coffee,” he says. Ale yeast is also being added to fermentation barrels by many, which gives the coffee notes of beer, he adds.
Indian Market
Indian coffee is considered one of the best in the world. It fetches a high premium in the international markets. Coffee is primarily an export commodity for India, and its consumption in the domestic market is 25 to 30% of the country’s production.
Cup Facts
Brazil is the biggest coffee producing country in the world, followed by Vietnam and Colombia. India comes sixth.
Decaffeinated coffee doesn’t mean that your drink is caffeine free. The decaffeination process removes about 97% of the caffeine in the beans, but it is never 100% removed.
source: http://www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> Special / by Tini Sara Anien / October 28th, 2023
Ram Miriyala has crooned Ooru Peru Bhairavakona’s Humma Humma song that is composed by Shekar Chandra
Sundeep Kishan and Varsha Bollamma
Sundeep Kishan, who was earlier seen in the gangster saga Michael this year, is all set to entertain audiences with the mystical thriller Ooru Peru Bhairavakona soon. Kavya Thapar and Varsha Bollamma play the female leads in the thriller produced by Razesh Danda under Hasya Movies, while Anil Sunkara is the presenter. VI Anand, who worked with Sundeep in Tiger, is the director.
A new single from the film, Humma Humma, was launched today. Shekar Chandra scores the music for the thriller. Ram Miriyala has crooned for the number, jointly lyricized by the composer and Tirupathi Jaavana. The catchy fusion track focuses on how the protagonist is smitten by the woman of his dreams and goes all out to woo her. The quirky lyrics, composition capture his enthusiasm.
‘Naa Valla Kade Bomma..Nee Kallu Chuste Amma..Inta Kalamu Lede..Vinta Lokamu Ente..Jaari Paddade Manase,’ the song’s opening lines read. The simple lyrics showcase the plight of a youngster who’s desperate to express his feelings to a loved one. Ram Miriyala’s laidback rendition, Sundeep Kishan’s expressions and Vijay Binni’s vibrant choreography enhance the appeal of the number.
The song has been shot at popular locations in Hyderabad and cinematographer Raj Thota’s aesthetic sense lets you explore the charm of the city while driving the story forward. The music video introduces viewers to the team behind the song, from the singer to the composer, lyricist and director as well. Humma Humma could be your ideal companion for a car ride to lift your spirits during a lazy evening.
The teaser of Ooru Peru Bhairavakona, released a few months ago, earned encouraging responses from audiences. Besides the mystical thriller, Sundeep Kishan is associating with actor Dhanush for two of his upcoming projects: Captain Miller and D50.While the former hits screens this December, D50 is directed by Dhanush himself.
source: http://www.ottplay.com / OTT Play / Home> News / by Srivathsan Nadadhur / October 28th, 2023
WELCOME. If you like what you see "SUBSCRIBE via EMAIL" to receive FREE regular UPDATES.
Read More »
![[object Object]](https://images.deccanherald.com/deccanherald%2F2023-10%2F200fbc0f-b367-49f9-a989-f783ec11a1c9%2FExperiential_Web.jpg?format=webp&q=70&w=900&dpr=1)
