I first met Sonam when I was judging the Mattina Coffee Latte Art Battle, where he emerged as the winner—something that, in hindsight, comes as no surprise. What does amaze me is the journey from that moment to his victory in the 2024 UAE Aeropress Championship.
Sonam is a man of many talents. While coffee brewing might come to mind first, his true strength lies in his unwavering dedication and relentless pursuit of perfection. It was a genuine pleasure to feature him on The Coffee Story, an interview series that highlights people in our vibrant coffee community, sharing their stories to inspire others.
Tell me a bit about yourself and how you started your coffee journey?
Hello, I’m Sonam Sherpa from the beautiful hills of Darjeeling, in Northeast India. My city is famous for tea, yet here I am in the coffee industry. I began my journey in Darjeeling with Cafe Coffee Day, a well-known Indian brand, as an all-rounder. However, my real coffee journey started in 2019 when I moved to the UAE and joined Costa Coffee to build a stable financial foundation. At that time, coffee wasn’t really a passion; it was just a job for me, like many people working for a paycheck. But I’ve always loved connecting with people, learning something new from each interaction.
Working at Costa Coffee was one of the best decisions I’ve made. I received foundational training in coffee theory and practice and was later assigned to an outlet in Al Ain, UAE. With every passing day, I developed a stronger curiosity about coffee. At first, it was challenging to work with the coffee machine since I didn’t have many opportunities to use it. Over time, though, I pushed myself to learn the standards and improve my skills.
Things changed about three months into my job at Costa Coffee when I received an email about the Barista of the Year Championship. For those who don’t know, it’s a competition among Costa Coffee baristas to showcase the brand’s excellence. I decided to register and soon found myself competing in store heats in Abu Dhabi, then advancing to area heats. Eventually, I made it to the top 10 finalists in the country.
During that time, I connected with Khyam Rai, a former Costa champion, who helped me immensely. His guidance and support were invaluable, and through him, I also met many Nepali baristas. This was my introduction to the world of specialty coffee, which inspired me to dive deeper, collecting coffee tools and handbooks to continue learning.
I’ve also tried various professions, like tour guide, hotelier, retailer, and teacher, but coffee truly felt like the right fit. Being a coffee professional is unique because I go to sleep excited about starting a new day.
There is a lot I want to ask you about winning the Aeropress competition in the UAE, the routine, the win. But before I dive into that, how do you feel you have evolved as a professional since you started in the industry?
I feel that commitment, dedication, and hard work have played the biggest roles in my growth. It also depends on how you view the industry. For me and for Puja, my wife and partner, it’s been a shared journey, helping each other along the way. I remember receiving a brewing set as a birthday gift, which was the start of our brewing practice at home. We attended numerous events like cupping sessions, latte art throwdowns, and various coffee workshops to learn, compete, and connect with others.
Our first National Brewers Cup and Barista Championship in 2022 was a major milestone. We didn’t know much about these competitions, so we researched deeply to understand them. Unfortunately, we couldn’t practice during work hours or have access to full competition setups, so we rented a room for four months and even rented a coffee machine and grinder. We would practice from 6 pm. until we were exhausted and then again in the mornings before work. The feeling of tiredness was worth it all along with the sense of growth, excitement, and accomplishment was unforgettable. Even now, on days when I feel lazy, I think back to those times, and it keeps me motivated.
The feeling must have been unreal. What was your game plan going into the Aeropress Championship in Lisbon, Portugal?
Yes, the feeling was incredible! It was our first World Championship, so we made sure we were well-prepared. We created specific recipes for different coffee processes and roast levels and even carried five liters of distilled water from the UAE to Portugal, just to be safe. We expected a washed, light-roast coffee, and when we got an Ethiopia Guji washed coffee, we had a recipe ready for it. We ended up in the top 16, which was an amazing achievement for us.
I have always seen you and Puja as an inspiration to many baristas and coffee professionals here in the UAE. What advice would you give those who are planning to compete?
Thank you, Naveed, for the kind words. My advice is to ask yourself why you want to compete. Dedication is essential. Learn and work hard every day, and remember, it’s crucial to embrace and learn from your mistakes. Also, don’t worry about what others say about you.
What are you working on next? Are there any personal skills or industry-related areas you’d like to focus on?
I’m looking forward to deepening my knowledge of the coffee industry.
You’re working with Kranti Coffee now. Can you tell us what Kranti is about and what you do there?
At Kranti Coffee, we’re dedicated to providing access to exotic and microlot coffees in Dubai, connecting our producers with the UAE’s coffee community. As a green coffee buyer, I’m responsible for selecting unique coffees directly from farms, focusing on the specific qualities of nanolots and microlots. My role also involves building strong relationships at the farm level to ensure that every coffee meets our quality standards and vision.
How did you and Divesh meet and started working on Kranti?
Divesh used to be a regular customer of mine, and we spent countless hours talking about coffee. His passion for the craft was contagious, and I always enjoyed our conversations. We grew even closer after I left my job to start consulting for people opening cafes. It was during one of those discussions that the idea for Kranti was born.
We talked about introducing Indian specialty coffee to the UAE, a concept that felt instantly right. I had always wanted to showcase Indian specialty coffee, and this project gave me the perfect opportunity to bring that vision to life in a way that aligned with my passion and work.
From there, we started reaching out to coffee producers in India. I sent emails, built connections, and eventually traveled to India myself. The experience was incredible. I met farmers, learned about their craft firsthand, and shared our vision for Indian specialty coffee. I returned to the UAE with many great green coffee samples, ready to dive into research and development. At the same time, I gained a deeper understanding of the market—what people were looking for in terms of flavors and quality.
After months of hard work and learning, we were finally ready. In 2023, Kranti launched at the World of Coffee Dubai, marking the start of something truly special. It became a platform to showcase the exotic coffees of India.
What do you think is the future of Indian specialty coffee and the specialty coffee scene in India?
India is traditionally known for commercial coffee exports, but more producers have recently started focusing on quality over quantity. Specialty Indian coffee has begun gaining international attention. Many producers are now committed to sustainable practices like preserving biodiversity, promoting organic farming, and supporting social responsibility, which make Indian coffee unique. Intercropping with spices and fruits, for example, not only boosts farm income but also improves soil health and coffee quality.
Although India is a tea-drinking country, specialty coffee consumers are growing, and so are the number of cafes and roasters. Events like coffee festivals, workshops, and training are helping to build a coffee culture and engage new consumers.
In my hometown, Darjeeling, we now have several specialty cafes. We also run a community called Darjeeling Hills and Sikkim Coffee Community, where we hold workshops from planting to roasting and brewing. We’ve been doing this since 2022, and each year, we see more interest, which makes me optimistic about the future of specialty coffee in India. Wherever I go in India, I can always find great specialty coffee, and I believe Indian specialty coffee will continue reaching new heights.
source: http://www.theneedforcoffee.com / The Need For Coffee / Home> The Blog> The Coffee Story / by Naveed Syed / November 23rd, 2024
Lieutenant General (retd) Codanda Somanna passed away at his residence at Panjaraparte in Virajpet last evening. He was 94. He was down by age related ailments.
He is survived by his wife Renu Somanna, son and daughter. His son Nived Nanjappa is serving as a doctor in the US.
Somanna led the ‘blue star’ operation in Punjab with success. The last rites will be performed after 12 noon today at his farmhouse with military honours. Senior officers of the Army paid their last respects to the decorated soldier.
Lt. Gen. Codanda Somanna with wife Renu Somanna.
The last rites should have been held with full military honours. But, due to the Covid-19 crisis, symbolic military honours were accorded to the departed soul. Somanna had played a pivotal role in Operation Blue Star at Amritsar. He was serving as the chief patron of the Field Marshal Cariappa-General Thimayya Forum.
General Dalbir Singh Suhag, the then Indian Army chief, along with General Bipin Rawat (present Chief of Defence Staff of India) had, in 2016, visited the house of Somanna during their trip to Kodagu. Field Marshal Cariappa-General Thimayya Forum president Col (retd) K.C. Subbaiah paid tributes to Somanna, saying he was known for his discipline.
General Dalbir Singh Suhag, the then Indian Army chief, along with General Bipin Rawat (present Chief of Defence Staff of India) had, in 2016, visited the house of Lt. Gen. Somanna.
Reaching out to a veteran general
On Aug. 8 2016, the Facebook page of ADGPI-Indian Army has a post:
“A mega veterans rally was held at Madikeri on 6 Aug 2016 which was attended by General Dalbir Singh, the Chief of Army Staff (COAS) and over 1800 Veterans and Veer Naris from Kodagu District. The COAS while attending the rally realised that the senior most veteran of the area, Lt Gen C.N. Somanna (Param Vishisht Seva Medal), 90 years old was not present. Gen. C.N. Somanna was commissioned into 3/11 GR, but went on to command 4 Guards. He was the Vice Chief of Army Staff in 1984-1985. On enquiry he was informed about the ill health of Lt Gen Somanna. The COAS immediately modified the programme and travelled over 40 kms to meet the General at his home in Virajpet.”
source: http://www.starofmysore.com / Star of Mysore / Home> News / June 14th, 2020
Kodagu district, known as the “Scotland of India,” faces an unprecedented heatwave with temperatures soaring to 35°C. The usual cool climate and abundant rainfall have given way to severe drought, leaving landscapes parched. Residents combat the heat by consuming watermelon and refreshing beverages. Concerns rise as the absence of rain depletes water sources and raises fears of even hotter summer months ahead.
Residents of Kodagu district, often dubbed as the “Scotland of India” for its lush greenery and cool climate, are currently grappling with an unusual heatwave as temperatures soar to 35 degrees Celsius. Once known for its abundant rainfall and fog-covered hills, the district is now experiencing a severe drought, leaving its scenic landscapes parched and its residents sweltering under the scorching sun.
Traditionally, Kodagu district, also known as Coorg, enjoyed moderate temperatures ranging from 15 to 20 degrees Celsius, thanks to ample rainfall that kept the region cool and foggy throughout the year. However, this year’s acute water shortage has transformed the district into a hot and arid terrain, devoid of its usual cloud cover and mist.
The absence of rainfall has led to the depletion of reservoirs, rivers, and streams, leaving the land dry and barren. With daily temperatures consistently reaching 34 to 35 degrees Celsius, residents find it challenging to venture outdoors, fearing the intense heat. Even simple tasks like buying groceries or commuting to work have become daunting endeavours, prompting many to stay indoors or seek refuge under umbrellas when stepping outside.
To combat the oppressive heat, residents have turned to consuming watermelon and other fruits with high water content, as well as indulging in fresh water and ice creams in large quantities. The demand for refreshing beverages has surged, with local vendors reporting a significant increase in sales.
Traders and residents alike express astonishment at the intensity of the heatwave, noting that such extreme weather conditions are unprecedented in their experience. Typically, monsoon rains would have arrived by March, providing relief from the heat. However, as the first week of April passes without a drop of rain, concerns mount about the impending summer months and the likelihood of temperatures rising even further.
source: http://www.newsable.asianetnews.com / Newsable Asianet / Home> English News> Karnataka / by Vinaykumar Patil / April 08th, 2024
The Government of India has issued the Plant Quarantine (Regulation of Import into India) (Sixteenth Amendment) Order, 2024. The notification was published on November 20, 2024 and has come into immediate effect. This amendment introduces special conditions for importing coffee beans into the country.
The amendment applies specifically to coffee beans (Coffea spp.) imported from any country for consumption or processing in India.
The aim is to prevent the entry of Coffee Berry Borers (Hypothenemus hampei and Sophranica ventralis), a destructive pest that can devastate coffee crops.
All imported coffee beans must now undergo fumigation with either Methyl Bromide or Phosphine to eliminate any potential Coffee Berry Borers.
The fumigation treatment details must be endorsed on the Phytosanitary Certificate issued by the exporting or re-exporting country.
This amendment helps to protect India’s coffee industry from invasive pests. Stricter import regulations ensure the quality and safety of imported coffee beans and minimize the risk of introducing harmful pests into the country’s agricultural ecosystem.
The solo performances at the 10th edition of Manthana in Mangaluru brought the Kodava culture and strong women characters from the epics under spotlight
Shilpa Nanjappa’s presented the ‘Tales of Kodava’ | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Shilpa Nanjappa, a Kodava, brought out the rich culture and ways of worship of her people and the greatness of River Cauvery (whose origin is in Coorg) through her ‘Tales in Kodava’. She gave a clear, comprehensive introduction, as the songs were in Kodava.
This was presented as part of the 10th edition of Manthana, organised by Mangaluru’s Nrityaangan, which featured many solo performances.
Shilpa’s entry was full of zest and she lit up the stage with her expressive face and powerful movements. She began with a Kauthuvam in ragamalika that narrated the tale of Ayyappa, with keen focus on Mohini. It was an adaptation from ‘The song of Saastaavu’, a part of the Pattole Palame, a compilation of folklore passed down orally through ancestral songs. She beautifully presented the contrast between the clumsy movements of Bhasmasura and the graceful dance of Mohini.
‘Sri mula kanniye, pommale kodu male’, a patriotic song accepted as the anthem of independent Kodagu, blended the legends about the river goddess Kaveri and her present condition. The way Shilpa portrayed the callousness with which people pollute her pure waters would have melted anyone’s heart. When she stated that this is also the story of every single woman, manipulated and silenced through history, one nodded in agreement.
Before concluding her performance with a self-composed thillana, Shilpa presented a sringara pada ‘Aye, thumbi’, portraying an enraged Kanditha Nayika who is scorned by the man she loves. Her thillana was on the Puthari festival, a ‘harvest festival’ of the Kodavas when they dedicate their rice harvest to Igguthappa, who, centuries ago, taught them the method of cultivating paddy. The choreography of this piece had movements inspired by the indigenous dance forms of the Kodavas.
Shilpa’s performance was followed by four vibrant solo presentations on important female characters from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata.
Divya Nair as Chitrangada | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Divya Nair was convincing in her portrayal as Chitrangada, the princess of Manipur and the only heiress to the throne, who was brought up by her father as a strong warrior and an able ruler. Though her thoughts and behaviour are unlike those of a woman, tender feelings of love blossom in her heart when she meets Arjuna, the Pandava prince. When her son Babruvahana is born, she transforms herself into a fond mother, too. Divya brought out the nuances of Chitrangada’s character with her lively movements and striking abhinayas. She left the spectators wondering, ‘Who are you, Chitrangada –– a warrior, a lover, a mother, or all of these?’ The lyrics had been composed by Dr. Suneel and were set to music by Sankaran Menon.
Indu Venu beautifully transformed into Kaikeyi | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Indu Venu transformed into Kaikeyi, who is torn between her intense love for Rama and her unbearable jealousy when she hears that he will be made king. Kaikeyi fears that once Rama becomes king, she and her son Bharata will have no identity. With Tulsidas’s ‘Tumak Chalat Ramachandra’, Indu Venu brought out the essence of motherly love. Along with Tulsi Ramayan, verses penned by Dr. Himanshu Srivastava were used for Indu Venu’s portrayal of Kaikeyi. Music and rhythmic composition for this was by Sujesh Menon and Vinay Nagarajan.
Manjula Subrahmanyabrought alive Hidimba as a demoness. | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Manjula Subrahmanya portrayed Hidimba, the beautiful demoness, who is besotted with love for the tall and well-built Bhima and becomes the eldest daughter in law of the Kuru clan. Her life with Bhima is brief, and when he goes back to his family, she is alone again. When Gatotkacha is born, her motherly instincts are awakened and she is a happy mother. When Bhima returns after many years, she is delighted but soon finds out that Bhima wants their son to participate in the war. Hidimba makes her supreme sacrifice as she willingly gives her son to Bhima and goes back to her life of lonely wandering.
With an intensely expressive face and strong masculine movements, Manjula brought alive Hidimba as a demoness. At the same time, by throwing light on her soft motherly feelings and her sacrifice, she made Hidimba’s personality soar high. Manjula painted a clear picture of the complex character of Hidimba, who is only briefly mentioned in the Mahabharata.
The lyrics for this presentation were by Kavitha Adooru, music by Vineeth Purvankara and jathis by Manjunath Putturu.
Radhika Shetty chose to present a different picture of Manthara | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Radhika Shetty, founder of Nrityaangan, presented ‘Manthareya Antharala’, a glimpse into the inner world of Manthara. Not conventionally beautiful, and abandoned by her parents, she finds refuge under Kaikeyi’s father and turns into a mother figure for Kaikeyi. Her actions are based on her boundless love for Kaikeyi and Bharata, who is like her grandson. Did she want anything for herself? Radhika’s expressive gestures and sensitive portrayal presented a different picture of Manthara. By the time Radhika concluded, the spectators were ready to understand Manthara and even sympathise with her.
Radhika’s presentation was based on Kuvempu’s Sri Ramayana Darshanam from which she had taken the lyrics that were set to music by Karthik Hebbar, Bengaluru.
The music ensemble was absolutely stunning. Vidyashree Radhakrishna’s impressive nattuvangam had dignity, strength, clarity and deftness. Nandakumar Unnikrishnan sang with emotion and gave life to the characters portrayed by the dansers. Mridangam by Karthik Vydhatri maintained the liveliness and flute by Nithish Ammannaya added melody and sweetness.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Entertainment> Dance / by B Ramadevi / November 26th, 2024
The ambitious project to construct a hanging bridge over the River Cauvery at Dubare Elephant Camp in Kodagu is poised to further transform this popular tourist destination.
Dubare draws thousands of tourists each month and the addition of a hanging bridge connecting both riverbanks promises to be a significant attraction. Currently, one side of the river is managed by the Tourism Department, while the Forest Department oversees the opposite side, home to the renowned elephant camp.
Presently, tourists can only traverse the river via motorised boats. Due to the high demand for boat rides, many visitors risk crossing on slippery rocks — when the water level is low, leading to accidents and prompting criticism of the Forest Department.
The original hanging bridge plan envisioned a 110-metre structure supported by three columns — two at the ends and one in the centre — with an estimated cost of Rs. 3 crore.
Two poles instead of three
However, the new proposal extends the bridge length to 210 metres, supported by only two poles, eliminating the central column thanks to enhanced suspension wire technology. The revised design will be higher at the centre than at the ends for added stability.
This updated project is estimated to cost Rs. 6 crore. The bridge will have a walking width of 1.5 metres and will be constructed above last year’s flash flood level to ensure safety.
Hanging bridge expert Patanjali Bharadwaj has finalised the design, materials and total project cost, including labour. Unlike the previous proposal where land ownership was shared between the Tourism and Forest Departments, the new project will be built entirely on Forest Department land, streamlining the approval process.
Budget estimate of Rs. 6 crore
The design and location survey have been completed and submitted to the Public Works Department (PWD). A budget estimate of Rs. 6 crore has been forwarded to the Finance Department for final approval. Patanjali Bharadwaj has designed the bridge and calculated the material cost as per the PWD budget list and provided the cost estimate.
The State Government and the PWD have granted in-principle approval and the project has been included in the Forest Department’s Action Plan, receiving sanction from the Forest Minister.
Funding will come from the Kodagu Foundation, which pools entry fees collected at various parks, trekking spots and forest guest houses, supplemented by government funds.
The PWD will supervise the construction, with the tender process set to begin following financial clearance. If funding is timely, the bridge could be completed within six months, with an expected finish date in 2025.
Boating to be discontinued
Bhaskar, Deputy Conservator of Forests (DCF), Madikeri Circle, explained the project’s earlier challenges. “Previously, land issues stalled progress due to the split ownership between the Tourism and Forest Departments, complicating clearances under the Wildlife Act. This time, we selected land solely managed by the Forest Department, eliminating these administrative obstacles. We are committed to seeing the project through. Once operational, boating services will be discontinued, though river rafting will continue,” he said.
For context, Patanjali Bharadwaj is the son of Padma Shri awardee Girish Bharadwaj, known as the ‘Bridge Man’ for constructing over 100 suspension footbridges across India. Girish Bharadwaj founded ‘Rational Engineering Industries’ in 1975 in Sullia, Dakshina Kannada, now known as Ayasshilpa. Patanjali is continuing his father’s legacy with this new project.
Revenue boost
The Dubare Elephant Camp operates daily from 9 am to 11 am and 4 pm to 5.30 pm. Forest officials report that the site welcomes an average of 500 to 700 tourists daily and has four boats for river crossings.
“During festivals and weekends, when over 2,000 tourists visit daily, managing the crowds becomes difficult. Weight restrictions limit boat capacity, forcing many visitors to leave without experiencing the elephant camp. The hanging bridge will resolve these issues and is expected to boost revenue,” officials added.
source: http://www.starofmysore.com / Star of Mysore / Home> News / November 24th, 2024
KSRTC buses with the registration of Madikeri RTO were added to the existing fleet of buses operated by the Madikeri depot on Thursday.
Five ‘Ashwamedha’ buses were the new buses with KA-12 vehicle registration that were flagged off in Madikeri by MLA Mantar Gowda.
The five buses will operate as Dasara special in view of the Navarathri celebrations. After Dasara, the buses will be operated in Kodagu district, said the MLA, after flagging off the buses at a function held in Madikeri.
The MLA said he had urged Minister for Transport Ramalinga Reddy for allocating buses with KA-12 registration (Madikeri RTO), during his recent visit to Shanivarasanthe in Kodagu district. Responding to the request, the Minister sanctioned the buses with the Madikeri registration, he said, while expressing happiness over the sanction of buses with Madikeri registration.
More KSRTC buses will ply in Kodagu in the coming days. Women can travel in the newly allotted buses as part of the Shakti scheme, he added.
The five buses have also got fancy registration numbers KA-12 F-01, F-02, F-03, F-04, F-05, the MLA said.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> News> India> Karnataka / by The Hindu Bureau / October 10th, 2024
Arjuna Awardee Gaurav Gill and co-driver Aniruddha Rangnekar overcame initial hiccups and performed admirably to take the lead after Day 1 in the Robusta Rally, the fifth and penultimate round of the fmsci Indian National Rally Championship 2024 here, on Saturday.
Gill, the Speed Maestro from Delhi, was forced to start on a cautious note as their intercom failed resulting in no calls and he had to drive from memory. After losing 17.4 seconds to Karna Kadur, who was fastest in Stage 1, Gill bounced back brilliantly to clock the fastest times in the remaining five Stages and took a handsome lead of over 53 seconds by the end of the day.
“It has been a perfect day. The stages were rougher than I expected with massive stones and boulders but we managed to overcome all odds as our tyres performed well. We had decent speeds and the goal is to bring back the car home tomorrow,” said Gill, the seven-time National champion.
Championship leaders Karna Kadur and co-driver Musa Sherif of Arka Motorsports were second overall followed by Hassan’s Jason Saldhanha and local co-driver Timmu Uddapanda.
Jason Saldhanha overtook former National champion Aditya Thakur (Chettinad Sporting) in the final stage of the day and was also leading in INRC2 class with Thakur in second place ahead of Jahaan Singh Gill of Snap Racing. Chettinad Sporting’s Daraius Shroff from Mumbai, the championship leader in the INRC3 category took a 20-second lead over Abhin Rai.
Fabid Ahmer, Harkrishan Wadia, Philippos Matthai, and Chetan Shivram were some of the top casualties on Day 1. On Sunday, the rally will run another six Special Stages at Woshully and Margoli estates.
Provisional Results after Day 1 (Leg 1 – Saturday):
Filter Coffee’s second place on an international ranking scale spills attention to emerging territories, where specialty coffee is brewing
New-age cafes like Bombay Island Coffee are now working with a deeper understanding of roasting to bring out the natural sugars in coffee beans, which can add layers of flavour. Pics/Sayyed Sameer Abedi
The humble filter coffee or kaapi was recently adjudged the second best brew by TasteAtlas, an online travel guide.
Positioned between Greece’s Espresso Freddo and Cuba’s Café Cubano, this beloved South Indian coffee is brewed through a two-chambered filter: the upper chamber holds finely ground coffee; the lower chamber catches the steadily dripping, rich brew. No electricity needed, just the natural pull of gravity. The result is a robust, full-bodied coffee, often combined with milk and sugar, served traditionally in a tumbler and saucer (davara). To achieve its signature froth, the mixture of coffee and milk is poured back and forth between vessels, aerating it.
While chicory, a root, was initially added to stretch coffee supplies, it became an essential part of the flavour profile, lending a woody caramel note that set filter coffee apart from intense, espresso-style brews. Freshly roasted coffee beans unlock a symphony of flavours through the Maillard reaction, releasing over 800 flavour molecules—from nutty pyrazines to fruity aldehydes and rich, caramel-like ketones. Unlike modern brewing techniques such as pour-overs, the filter method preserves these complex flavours and oils to present an unmatched depth of taste.
Nandan Coffee’s new flagship outlet isn’t just a café but an experience centre that celebrates three generations of the brand’s coffee-brewing heritage, sustainable farming, and artisanal craftsmanship, sourced from their estate in Kodaikanal.
Traditional filter coffee reigns are deeply embedded in southern states such as Tamil Nadu and Karnataka. Instant coffee is prized for convenience and the fast-paced urban lifestyle in the northern states. According to the Coffee Consumption Trends in India report, India’s coffee consumption reached 91,000 tonnes of green bean equivalent (GBE) in 2023, up from 84,000 tonnes in 2012. This was driven by increased home use, rising instant coffee popularity, and a boom in café culture. Analysts predict a boom in demand will double by 2027, spurred by evolving consumer tastes and lifestyle shifts.
Cafe menus have gone beyond cappuccionos and lattes, with options like peach coffee spritzers (right) Turkish coffee brewed on hot sand, at Bombay Island Coffee
The nation’s coffee history runs deep—the beverage arrived long before tea. Tea gained widespread popularity when the colonising British sought to reduce their reliance on tea imports from China. Them trading opium for the leaf was pivotal in tea’s dominance over the Indian market.
Binny Varghese, fondly called Barista on a Bike and founder of Barista Training Academy in New Delhi, highlights an intriguing paradox: “India produces some of the best teas in the world, yet most of the premium varieties are exported.” This stems from the development of the industry under colonial rule, which prioritised mass production over quality. Tea dust—small, broken bits of tea leaves mixed with milk and sugar—becoming the ubiquitous chai served at railway stations. High-quality teas, such as those from Assam, were exported.
Yahvi Mariwala with her parents, Farida and Shyam. Pic/Anurag Ahire
A similar trajectory can be traced for coffee. By the early 20th century, large-scale coffee bean cultivation, flourished in Coorg and Chikkamagaluru, driven by the Brahmin community, which championed filter coffee as a cultural staple.
Until 1992, coffee was a centralised commodity with limited access. Plantation workers often collected leftover coffee beans—discarded seeds and skins—and roasted them at home, using ghee to enhance the flavour. Cardamom and cloves created a unique regional twist in regions like Kerala and Karnataka. This grassroots approach gradually laid the groundwork for India’s burgeoning coffee culture.
Coffee farmers in Nagaland, many new to coffee cultivation, are learning experimental techniques such as anaerobic and carbonic maceration
The rise of chains such as Barista and Starbucks, and homegrown specialty brands such as Blue Tokai, Nandan Coffee, and Bombay Island among others have popularised espresso-based drinks in urban centres, attracting younger, affluent audiences. From coffee tours to sampling sessions to making your own brew while offering product innovation, brands are crafting experiences to make coffee a cool drink.
Rupal Jain, Founder, Bombay Island Coffee says, “India’s coffee culture is on the cusp of transformation, following the path of other nations where economic growth has shifted preferences from tea to coffee. As disposable incomes rise, coffee is becoming a lifestyle choice, influenced by the appeal of café culture.
Unlike tea, which remains a domestic tradition, coffee is associated with socialising, relaxation, and modernity. Coffee is an aspirational symbol in urban spaces, reflecting a broader societal shift towards premium, experience-driven consumption. Tea remains a quiet, home-based ritual.”
Pranathi Shetty’s Kollibyle Estate in the Western Ghats is entirely run by women
This trend is expected to intensify as India moves closer to becoming a developed economy. South Korea, Singapore, and China, once known for their tea-drinking cultures, have all undergone similar transitions, with coffee emerging as the drink of everyday life and a symbol of affluence. “In South Korea,” Jain notes, “Starbucks has the second-highest footfall of any location globally.”
Coffee entrepreneurs have noticed an untapped potential in the Indian market—where the typical coffee is over-roasted or lacks the subtle sweetness of specialty ones. Jain admits, “Inspired by trends set by Blue Tokai and KC Roasters, we’ve developed a deeper understanding of roasting to bring out the natural sugars in coffee beans, which can add layers of flavour and reduce the need for added sweetness.”
Coffee grower at Kigwema village, Kohima, Nagaland
Her entrepreneurial journey, alongside husband Vineeth, is rooted in a desire to reshape the Indian coffee landscape. With a background in finance, in 2016, the founders delved into learning everything about coffee, from farming to brewing, with local and international training. Their insights led to the realisation that India has the potential to produce exceptional coffee, but the local market was missing quality beans. This gap led to investing in a roastery, right inside their cafe in Vikhroli.
On soil, more farmers are becoming conscious of how beans are grown and processed. New techniques such as fermentation and whiskey barrel ageing are enlisted developing unique flavour profiles that were previously exported. Coffee-growing regions are beginning to offer more specialised beans for a refined, global palate. Bean prices are at an all-time high, with Robusta, in particular, reaching a record high of Rs 4 lakh metric tonne on the London-based ICE Futures Europe market.
Pranithi Shetty, Rupal Jain and Lichan Humtsoe
However, climate change and unpredictable weather impact production, especially for the Arabica variant of coffee, which has seen significantly lower yields this season. In contrast, Robusta has fared better due to improved irrigation practices, says Pranathi Shetty, who left her corporate job in Mumbai to run her family’s Kollibyle Estate, a women-run coffee venture in Mudigere, Karnataka. For over 70 years, the estate has focused on sustainability. While coffee cultivation remains largely manual, recent innovations in post-harvest processes, like colour sorting and new machinery, are being introduced. The terrain of regions like Chikkamagaluru limits automation, but estate management tools such as operational apps streamline day-to-day tasks.
Shetty says, “Climate change is driving experimentation in previously unsuitable areas for coffee cultivation, such as the Northeast of India. While this presents new opportunities, it doesn’t threaten traditional regions such as Chikkamagaluru, where local consumption steadily increases.”
Rajasthan has an emerging coffee culture boosted by foreign tourists. “Jaipur was one of the first cities to house a roaster inside a café back in 2014 or 2015 when Neeraj Sheoran, founder of Curious Life Coffee Roasters, pioneered this,” says Varghese. “They have two large stores today, and initially attracted many foreigners who stayed in Rajasthan for longer periods. Now, new modern cafés open every month.”
Some cafes also offer international coffees, which bear high import taxes. “There’s a hefty 105 to 110 per cent tax on imported green coffee,” says Verghese. “There’s an extensive coffee scene across the capital and the NCR region. Competition is fierce, and the price coffee rises as new players enter the market. Punjab, too, has a vibrant coffee scene, especially Chandigarh and Amritsar. Punjab has two noteworthy roasters—Double Shot coffee roasters and Bloom Coffee roasters —that have revolutionised the regions coffee culture.
Varghese explains that Punjab likes its cappuccinos, lattes, and flat whites served at much higher temperatures. But in Amritsar, Double shot café has trained patrons to appreciate the right temperature for these drinks, which has had an enormous impact. “It’s quite a sight,” he says, “this café is a three-story building, and they were one of the few places in India where coffee sales outpaced food sales. Typically, good coffee shops also offer an extensive food menu, which can be both costly and a logistical challenge. However, this café thrives by focusing purely on coffee, a rarity in India, where we often expect coffee to be accompanied by pastries or meals.”
In Jalandhar, new generation cafés like Buland, Zoka, and Wht Blk are a part of a broader wave of establishments—cultivating a passionate coffee community in Punjab. In Surat, coffee is an alternative to alcohol in a dry state. Amit Patel’s KOKORO hosts home-brewing workshops and nurtures a local network of enthusiasts. His new venture, KOKORO School, launched with the Coffee Board of India, teaches brewing and soft skills.
Gone are the days when the Indian customer was happy with just instant coffee or cappuccino. The modern drinker now prefers specialty coffee that’s been roasted to perfect the flavour profile and painstakingly brewed in a myriad of methods by baristas
Closer to home, in Mumbai, where third generation coffeepreuneur Yahvi Mariwala opened the famed Nandan Coffee at Kala Ghoda in October was clear of what she wanted to offer. “Coffee language can be intimidating—so we wanted to keep it jargon-free and very straightforward so that more people can appreciate the coffee experience at a seat by the window or at the Create Your Own Coffee station, where you can learn the art of coffee blending and brewing from their in-house barista.”
Lichan Humtsoe, Founder and CEO of Été Coffee, the first specialty coffee roasting company and first Coffee School in the northeastern states that was established in 2016 in Kohima, tells us, “On one hand, there’s the growing wave of cafés and roasteries in Nagaland, which we’re actively supporting by offering equipment and machinery. We’ve sold 19 Espresso machines in just a few months, ushering over 10 new cafés in Kohima and Dimapur (Nagaland) alone. The trend rapidly spreads to Sikkim, Meghalaya, Arunachal, Aizawl, and Manipur. Although still in the early stages, we are involved in several exciting projects in Assam too.”
A training session in progress at Été Coffee School in Nagaland
Harking to the beginning of brewing in the region, Humtsoe shares, “The first coffee plantations came in the early 1980s in Nagaland. However, coffee culture didn’t really take root; many farmers abandoned their farms, and it wasn’t until the 2010s that things began to change. In 2016, we became the first specialty coffee roaster in the Northeast. Since then, there’s been significant momentum, driven by initiatives (massive plantation and revival of old abandoned farms in 2015-2016) from the government, the Department of Land Resources, and the Coffee Board. The establishment of other coffee roasters, such as Nagaland Coffee in 2018, further fuelled this growth.” (Nagaland Coffee was actively exporting green coffee overseas by 2016. D’Cafe in Kohima is acclaimed to be the first full-fledged modern-day cafe established in 2016).
Technology and techniques are still in their early days on farms. Most coffee plantations have only been established in the past five to eight years. “We’re currently working with the first, second, and third-generation crops,” Humtsoe says. “While experimental techniques such as anaerobic and carbonic maceration are being explored, it’s still a learning process. The farmers, many new to coffee cultivation, are adopting new practices, and while it can be overwhelming, there’s a strong sense of excitement and potential.”
Binny Varghese
Technology and techniques are still in their early days on farms. Most coffee plantations have only been established in the past five to seven years. “We’re currently working with the first, second, and third-generation crops,” Humtsoe says. “While experimental techniques such as anaerobic and carbonic maceration are being explored, it’s still a learning process. The farmers, many new to coffee cultivation, are adopting new practices, and while it can be overwhelming, there’s a strong sense of excitement and potential.”
The transformation of coffee in India—from political and industrial roots to a more humane, culture-driven movement—continues to unfold. A fourth wave with specialty shops, roasters, and artisanal cafés is washing over major cities, fostering awareness about fair-trade practices, small-batch sourcing, and unique brewing techniques. However, full adoption will depend on several factors.
“We are riding all the waves simultaneously,” says Varghese, “Traditional preferences for filter coffee and instant coffee mean tastes vary widely, and specialty coffee remains a premium product. Additionally, awareness about the environmental and ethical dimensions of coffee sourcing, touchstone of the fourth wave, is still developing.”
The growing presence of local specialty brands, greater consumer awareness, and rising younger demographic suggest India has the potential to become a robust market in the near future. However, for now, Roaster and Coffee educator like Humtsoe’s vision is to create a domestic market that supports locally grown, specialty coffee. “There’s no reason we should go to Europe for an exceptional cup of coffee which is actually grown here in our backyard,” he says, adding, “This is an exciting time, especially with south India moving toward specialty coffee, and the same trend begins to take root in the Northeast. India is finally a big part of the global coffee wealth-building narrative.”
Ghar-chi coffee
Maharashtra has been cultivating coffee for over a century, with plantations such as Chikhaldara’s 100-acre estate in Amravati district dating back to the late 1800s. Its Arabica coffee—once nurtured by British officers and later expanded by the Roman Catholic Mission—remains largely absent from specialty coffee shops.
Despite the increasing demand for premium, specialty coffee, most of Maharashtra’s harvest is sold in its raw forms, such as filter coffee or green beans. Though coffee cultivation in Maharashtra is relatively new compared to the well-established plantations of south India, the state has seen some innovative strides. Ashwin Paranjpe has been experimenting at his Gorus Forest Farm in Mulshi, using seeds from his great-grandfather’s original plants. Along with landscape designer Swati Aringale, Paranjpe has demonstrated that coffee can thrive in Maharashtra with proper forest management and irrigation despite the state’s challenging climate.
However, the industry faces a fundamental challenge: a need for formal education in coffee processing. While south Indian farmers have long been trained in fermentation and processing, many in Maharashtra lack these essential skills. As a result, much of the bean doesn’t reach its potential as specialty coffee.
Yet, there is hope. State-grown coffee has scored high on the Q -grading scale (universal system for evaluating coffees). Farmers such as Paranjpe are committed to improving yeild quality, and experts hold, with the right support, it could take five to 10 years for Maharashtra to become a recognised player in the specialty coffee world.
This evolution takes on even more profound significance when considering the historical roots of the industry in Pune. In 1864, an article in the Jnanaprakash newspaper detailed the rise and fall of coffee plantations in Mundhwa and Hadapsar, part of Pune’s Haveli taluka. The coffee, praised by Europeans in the Cantonment area, was ultimately ruined due to a dispute between the plantation owners.
The report piqued my curiosity, leading to further research that uncovered the contributions of Anglo-Indians William Sundt and William Webbe. They were instrumental in the early success of coffee cultivation in Pune, transforming their gardens into plantations. This not only shaped Pune’s horticultural history but also planted the seeds for the coffee industry in the region.
Why so special?
Coffee quality is evaluated using a 100-point scale developed by the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA), with scores falling into several categories: Specialty Coffee: 80 pts or higher; Outstanding: 90 to 100 pts; Excellent: 85 to 89.99 pts; Very Good: 80 to 84.99 pts, and Commercial-Grade: 60 to 80 pts.
Quality graders are experts in coffee evaluation, and follow strict protocols for factors such as water temperature, coffee dosage, grind size, and brewing time, assigning scores to the beans across 10 categories including aroma, taste, aftertaste, acidity, body, and sweetness. Only about 6 per cent of the world’s coffee meets the standards required to be classified as specialty coffee.
India drank
2012 : 84,000 tonnes
2023: 91,000 tonnes
source: http://www.mid-day.com / mid-day / Home> mid-day / by Nasrin Modak Siddiqui / November 17th, 2024
Coffee Board of India has embarked on a 10-year road map with a target to double the country’s coffee production and coffee exports by 2034, said board chairman M.J. Dinesh on Tuesday (November 19).
“It’s a 10-year mandate starting from 2024 to double our production and also double our exports by 2034. We will also increase the area under production during this period. However, the focus will be on creating best yielding varieties and increasing the production from existing plants through best practices and technology upgradation,” he said.
Addressing coffee growers at the Karnataka Planters’ Association annual conference held here on Tuesday, Mr Dinesh said these activities would include forming 100 FPOs (farmer producer organisations) across the country, of which 60 will be in Karnataka. These FPOs, expected to come up within a year, would create additional momentum for the commodity within the country and in global markets, he anticipated.
What is the offing
He further said that under the 10-year growth plan, the board would also identify 10,000 small coffee farmers who would grow speciality coffee varieties mostly targeted at export markets. “We expect these small farmers to come up with a wide range of speciality varieties that can fetch a premium in the global markets,” he added.
Under the 10-year market expansion plan, the board would also facilitate 10,000 coffee kiosks, mostly managed by women entrepreneurs, to increase the country’s per capita coffee consumption from 107 grams currently to 250 grams in 10 years, he further said.
He also said the board has an ambitious target of nearly trebling the coffee production from 3.7 lakh tonnes in 2024-25 to 9 lakh tonnes by 2047.
Commenting on the possibilities of mechanisation, Mr Dinesh said currently, the growers’ community has been pending a whopping ₹ 1200 crore to ₹ 1300 crore to get the coffee harvested annually through manual labour. This expenditure could be significantly reduced through the use of harvesting machines, and IIT Kharagpur, in collaboration with the Coffee Board, has been working on the prototypes of some such machines.
“Overall, the 10-year plan will certainly give Indian coffees a sizable standing in the global markets. In addition, it will also redefine the coffee landscape of the country,“ he hoped.
KPA chairman K G Rajeev said the grower’s body has made a presentation to the Ministry of Commerce and Industries seeking the inclusion of coffee under PM Fasal Bima Yojana. Presently, coffee farmers are not covered under insurance, while all other plantation crops are covered under insurance. The KPA has also sought assistance from the Govt to promote brand identity for coffee and tea emphasising their quality and unique characteristics. It has also sought exemption or reduction of customs duty on import of agriculture equipment.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> News> India> Karnataka / by Mini Tejaswi / November 20th, 2024
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